wines of Frédéric Cossard, Domaine de Chassorney, Burgundy
Serious natural expressions of Burgundy
Cossard is a natural wine guy who started his domaine in 1996, and
now farms 7 hectares (all rented), making his wine in Saint-Romain.
He began his career in the milk trade and then worked for a while as
a wine merchant before deciding to switch to making the stuff.
began with a rented facility in Saint Romain, then bought a house
with a cellar in the village in 1998, where he made his wines until
he moved to the current winery, also in the village.
is without any sulfur dioxide at all. Cossard uses a long maceration
of five to six weeks, and malolactic fermentation occurs while the
wine is still on the skins. The barrels he uses are cleaned by ozone
– not sulfur dioxide.
natural fermentations of the whites can take up to 6 months: there
is no stirring of the lees at all.
range is divided into the wines sold under his name (higher end) and
those of Domaine de Chassorney. UK retail prices are given in
brackets (the UK agent is Les Caves de Pyrene).
also: an excellent article on Fred at www.wineterroirs.com
Cossard Meursault ‘Narvaux’ 2007
Amazing depth and concentration to this wine: nutty, intense,
broad, quite evolved nose. The palate is concentrated and intense
with lovely breadth. A lovely wine. 93/100 (£42)
Cossard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Abbeye d Morgeot’ 2007
Open, slightly volatile, herby nose. The palate is appley, herby
and lemony with some hints of reduction? Hard to judge. 90/100
Cossard Puligny Montrachet ‘Les Rechaux’ 2007
Dense, fresh, lively mineralic nose. Bold and rich with
beautiful aromatics. The palate is dense yet really elegant. A
beautiful wine. 94/100 (£48)
Cossard Volnay 2007
Super-elegant with a beautiful sappy edge to the sweet cherry
fruit nose. Lovely freshness on the palate. A really lovely wine.
Cossard Beaune 1er Cru Rouge 2007
Aromatic, herby, sappy, sweet cherry fruit nose. Spicy, earthy
structure under the pure cherry fruit on the palate. A nice
expressive style. 93/100 (£29)
de Chassorney Bourgogne Blanc ‘Bigotes’ 2007
Taut, dense and herby with lovely intensity. Quite savoury and
dense with great depth. 91/100 (£16)
Chassorney Saint-Romain Blanc ‘Combe Bazin’ 2007
Complex, bold, rich nutty nose with fresh fruit. The palate is
focused with dense, spicy minerality. Super concentration; a
reductive style. 93/100 (£19)
Chassorney Bourgogne Rouge ‘Bedeau’ 2007
Super-elegant, herby, intense focused cherry fruit. Light-bodied
but concentrated at the same time. Lovely minerality. 92/100 (£18)
Chassorney Saint-Romain Rouge ‘Sous Roche’ 2007
Complex, minerally, earthy and spicy with lovely purity and
freshness to the cherry and berry fruit. Lovely wine. 93/100 (£20)
Chassorney Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Argillieres 2007
Pale colour. Beautifully delicate aromatics. Pure and sweet with
lovely earthy, spicy density on the palate. Mouthfilling and dense
yet light and elegant at the same time. Nice structure, too. 94/100
natural Burgundies of Philippe Pacalet
Wines tasted 04/09
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