The
new Douro: part 6
Quinta
do Crasto
Sociedade Agrícola da Quinta do Crasto, Gouvinhas,
5060-063 Sabrosa, Portugal
Tel: +351-254 920 020, Fax: +351-254 920 788
The magnificently situated Crasto
estate in the Douro. Compare this view, taken from the riverbank, with
the pictures looking
down on the estate, taken on my previous visit.
Crasto is a beautiful estate owned by Jorge Roquette
and his family. It’s been marketing its own wines since 1994, and
currently has an important role as one of the most visible
manufacturers of
Douro
table wines. The situation couldn’t be better, with the house and
winery located on a hilly outcrop on the Douro, roughly midway between Pinhão and Régua in the Cima Corgo.
Altogether the estate consists of 130 hectares, with 48
ha under vine. There’s been quite a bit of
modernization of both the vineyards and the cellars, and this
is continuing with the planting of more vineyards in the Douro
Superior. The newer vineyards are planted by variety (Tinta
Roriz, Touriga Francesa, Tinta Barroca, Tinto Cấo,
Touriga Francesa). On the slopes on either side of the winery
are the precious old vine vineyards (visible in the picture
above).
A
recent development is the purchase of 100 hectares in the
Douro superior on the left bank. 7 ha are being planted now,
with the intention to raise this to 30. Irrigation is needed
and the idea is that this will provide good blending material.
|
Jorge Roquette of
Crasto and consultant winemaker Dominic Morris seem to be
enjoying a glass of Maria Theresa |
From 1994
winemaking was conducted under the guidance of two Aussies, Dominic
Morris and David Baverstock. David’s involvement here stopped a few
years back, but Dominic is still involved and runs the winemaking
here, although in 2002 a young
Spanish winemaker, Susana Esteban, was hired. Previously with Douro
property Quinta do Côtto, she’s now responsible for Port and red wine
vinification (under the guidance of Morris), while Tomas Roquette manages the Quinta and his brother
Miguel Roquette takes care of sales and marketing.
Quinta do Crasto
Douro 2001
Unoaked, this is bright and fruity with lovely sweetness to the
fruit. Bold and bright; juicy and fresh. Very good+ 86/100
Quinta do Crasto
Douro Reserva 2001
After quick foot treading in Lagares this goes into open tanks,
then 3/4 to French and 1/4 to American oak barrels. Ripe, intensely
spicy black fruits nose. Good density. Vividly fruited palate shows
lovely balance between the ripe fruit and the spicy structure. A rich
modern style, but good acid and tannins. Very good/excellent 90/100
Quinta do Crasto
Touriga Nacional 2001
Very forward spicy, minty nose with distinctive dark, spicy
fruits. The palate is concentrated, dense and spicy with lots of ripe
fruit, good acidity and some tannic structure. There's a hint of
coconut, too, from the oak. Very good+ 89/100
Quinta do Crasto
Maria Theresa 2001
One of the two single vineyard wines, but they are only made when
the vintage warrants it. Ripe, spicy, sweet, complex and tarry on the
nose with good depth of fruit. The palate is quite lush, with bold
complex sweet fruit. Good acid and balance. Direct and modern; spicy
and herby. Very good/excellent 92/100
see
also: earlier report (June 2002) of Quinta
do Crasto
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