The wines of
Carbone, Basilicata, Italy
Impressive wines from Aglianico and Fiano
Website: www.carbonevini.it
I tasted these wines with Sara Carbone (above),
who along with her brother Luca, manage this estate which they
inherited from their parents.
The family have been growing grapes in
this region of southern Italy since 1974, but previously sold the
grapes to other companies. It’s only since 2005 that Sara and Luca
have been bottling their own wines.
This is the south, but the warm climate
is moderated by altitude, with the hot days followed by cool
evenings. The vines are grown in deep brown volcanic soils
surrounding Mount Vulture, and they are lucky enough to be working
with two excellent grape varieties: whites are made from Fiano and
reds from Aglianico.
They have 10 hectares of Aglianico and
Fiano planted in Melfi (most in the 1970s), and a further 8 hectares
more recently planted with Aglianico and Moscato.
Aglianico is a fabulous variety – the
Nebbiolo of the south. It can be quite tannic and difficult, but
when it’s handled properly produces complex, structured wines of
real ageing potential and savoury appeal.
THE
WINES
Carbone Fiano 2010 Basilicata
Lovely ripe white peach fruit on the nose. The palate is fresh
and vibrant but also subtly nutty, with precise pear and white peach
fruit. 90/100
Carbone Aglianico del Vulture ‘400
Some’ 2007 Basilicata
Mostly from 25 year old vines, but with some fruit from older
vines. Brooding, spicy, mineral nose with a nice savoury edge. The
palate is savoury and elegant with some earthy notes under the
cherry fruit, and it has a nicely sour edge to it. Brilliant wine
with a nice mineral finish. 93/100
Carbone Aglianico del Vulture
‘Stupor Mundi’ 2007 Basilicata
This is a bit of a monster, but a nice one. Made from an old
clone with very thick skins, this is distinctive, savoury and
intense, with notes of earth, spicy, cherry and beetroot on the
nose. The palate is dense, firm and grippy with savoury earth and
spice notes. Very tannic and almost austere, but with real
complexity. 93/100
UK availability: these wines are stocked
by Berry
Bros & Rudd
See
also:
The
wines of COS, Sicily
Mount
Etna tasting
Wines
tasted 09/11
Find these wines with wine-searcher.com
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