Burgundy's vineyards, part 3
stop was Domaine Pierre Morey, where we met with Pierre’s daughter
Anne (above), who co-manages the Domaine with her father.
Morey (right) is best known as the winemaker for the
celebrated Domaine Leflaive, but he also has his own domaine.
Founded in 1971, he has 11 hectares of vines, two-thirds of which
are white. He has plots in Meursault, Monthélie, Pommard and
Puligny Montrachet, with a couple of Grand Cru holdings.
father was 10 years old when he started working in the vineyards.
The Morey family have been living in Meursault since 1793, and since
then his family have always been involved in wine. Morey’s father
Auguste was one of the share-croppers for Domaine Comte Lafon in the
days when Lafon’s 14 hectares of vines were divided among 9
1971 Pierre began his own domain. Then, in the 1980s Lafon decided
to take back their vineyards from the share-croppers, and this meant
that the available vineyards for Pierre’s domain reduced. Because
of this, in 1992 he established a negociant business, Morey Blanc.
Fruit and musts are purchased from growers, with the winemaking
taking place at Domaine Pierre Morey.
1988 Pierre became winemaker for Domaine Leflaive, and remained
there for 20 years, leaving in 2008. Morey witnessed the illness of
the vines during this time, and realised that the chemical sales rep
was deciding the spraying program, which only made things worse.
Ann-Claude Leflaive went to a seminar with Nicolas Joly and found it
a revelation. Leflaive started experimenting with biodynamics, while
Morey took his whole domaine organic in 1991. Since 1992 the domaine
has been organic (certified by Ecocert), and since 1998 it has been
biodynamic (certified by Biodyvin).
use the basic biodynamic rules,’ says Anne, ‘but also we use our
own sensitivity for each plot: the personal touch is important.’
purpose of biodynamics is to build up the immune system of the vines
so they can resist problems,’ says Anne. ‘We want a balance in
the vineyard. We can have illnesses and insects, but the vines are
strong enough to fight against them. One of the first main jobs is
to get the roots to dig deeper. We use the calendar as much as
possible, but running a business means it is not always possible.’
Anne adds that if in the vineyard a plot looks weaker or not in
harmony, then they’ll make sure they use the right day, and it’s
possible to pick the right days for cellar work.
Pierre Morey Bourgogne Aligote 2007
Very precise, herby and lemony with nice freshness. Crisp and
minerally with herby fruit. Deliciously bright. 87/100
Pierre Morey Bourgogne Chardonnay 2007
Gently lemony, herby nose. The palate is fresh and gently toasty
with some mineral notes. Fresh, herby and a bit minerally: tight,
focused and savoury. 89/100
Blanc Saint Aubin 1er Cru Les Combes 2007
Tight, minerally and savoury with lovely minerality and acidity.
Tight and backward with some structure. Firm and savoury. 89/100
Pierre Morey Meursault 2007
From three different parcels. Nicely toasty, mineral nose. Some
breadth, but it’s quite precise and savoury. The palate is taut
and mineralic with lovely focus and acidity. Very linear and intense
with citrus notes. 91/100
Pierre More Meursault Le Tesson 2007
Focused, tight nose with herbs and minerals. The palate is
fresh, herby and intense with profound minerality and good acidity.
Very fresh, savoury and linear. 92/100
Pierre More Meursault Le Tesson 2006
This had to be harvested fast because there was a risk of
over-maturity. Warm, rounded, toasty, spicy nose. The palate is
rich, toasty and broad with nice acidity. A rich, bold style with
nice weight. 90/100
Pierre More Meursault Le Tesson 2005
Interesting nose: complex and reductive with spicy matchstick,
mineral notes. Quite profound. The palate is mineral and tight with
real intensity. Lovely savoury, mineral depth here: striking stuff
with taut acidity. Will last a long time. 94/100
Pierre More Meursault Le Tesson 2004
Very striking, reduced nose with matchstick and a bit of
cabbage. Complex and savoury, with lots of interest. The palate is
tight and acidic with herby, cabbagey notes and lots of minerality.
Really reduced with lots of potential for the future. I’d forget
about this for six years and come back to it then. 92/100
Blanc Meursault Charmes 2007
Delicate yet intense nose with complex mineral and toast notes.
The palate has some breadth and nice spicy, minerally depth. Focused
and concentrated with nothing sticking out. Lemony, toasty and
intense with linearity. 91/100
Pierre Morey Meursault 2003
Still focused but richly fruited, with bold nutty character.
This is evolving nicely: a full, rich, toasty, nutty, savoury wine
that is developing nicely. Not classic, but deliciously focused.
Good concentration. 90/100
Pierre Morey Meursault 2002
Beautiful nose is opening out nicely. Gently herby with a hint
of cabbage. Fresh and intense with lovely acidity. Focused and
minerally. Taut, youthful and sophisticated: a really fabulous
Pierre Morey Monthelie 2006
Pale cherry colour. Lovely open, expressive nose with cherries,
herbs and fresh sappiness. Very bright, vibrant, juicy palate.
Simple but lively, and delicious. 89/100
Pierre Morey Volnay Santenots 2006
Wonderful nose: focused, vibrant and fresh with cherry fruit and
sophisticated spicy notes. Savoury and precise. The palate has
lovely fresh, bright cherry fruit with wonderful minerality. Bright,
fresh and complex. 92/100
vineyard was bought in 2004 and had been managed conventionally with
lots of chemicals, but biodynamics has had effects really quickly.
They had to plough lightly at first because the roots were all at
the surface. The way that the vineyard and vines improves each year
reassures them that biodynamics is the way to go. ‘Every year the
wine feels it has more personality and more energy,’ says Anne.
‘It is great to see how a vineyard in a bad state can be brought
back to life.’
Wines tasted June 2009
from April 2005:
Morey Bourgogne Aligoté 2000
Very fresh with
good acidity: a crisp, lean, mineralic style of white. What you’d
expect from Aligoté. Very good+ 87/100
Morey Bourgogne Chardonnay 2000
fresh nose. The palate is fresh and fruity with good acidity. Nice
crispness to this white, which is made in a lean mineralic style,
and is evolving slowly. Very good+ 88/100
Morey Meursault 2000
nutty nose is fresh and full but with some nutty, smoky depth.
Really appealing. The palate has lovely acidity and is fresh and
minerally. Quite complex with some racy herby notes. Very
Morey Monthélie 2000
This red wine has
a fresh cherry fruit nose with an appealing spicy edge to the
forward fruit. Vibrant, spicy high-acid palate with a nice savoury,
spicy twist. Not a big wine, but very expressive. Very
Morey Meursault Les Durots 2000
spicy nose with cherryish fruit. The palate is lively with a herby
edge to the fruit. Tasty stuff with a nice savoury character. Very
these wines with wine-searcher.com