south
african wine, part 9
Graham
Beck
Graham
Beck Wines is, along with Vergelegen, highly visible as the modern
face of South African
wine. These
are both big operations, well supported financially, and aim to make
high quality wines in reasonable quantities, with a broad range of
styles.
Established
by coal magnate and all round business person Graham Beck, the first
wines were made here in 1991. Expansion has led to the creation of a
second cellar, in Franschhoek (pictured above), to complement the
original one in Robertson, and this is where I visited to see some
vineyards and taste through the range with winemaker Erika
Obermeyer.
The
grapes come from four sizeable vineyard holdings in the Western
Cape. The two largest are the original Madeba farm in Robertson (146
hectares) and in Franschoek (130 hectares),
and the other two are in the Heldeberg region of Stellenbosch.
Altogether production ranges from 275 000–400 000 cases each year,
from a total of 400 hectares of vineyard.
One of the specialities here is Méthode Cap Classique (fizz)
created by Pieter Ferreira, who was on the closures
debate panel with me in May at the London Wine Fair. Pieter has
overall responsibility for all the Graham Beck wines.
Graham
Beck Brut Rosé 2004
Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes
make this, and they go into the press together. It’s a
deliciously fresh strawberry-tinged fizz with a nice acid zing. Dry
and fresh with good grip. Very good+ 85/100
Graham
Beck Pheasant’s Run Sauvignon Blanc 2005 Durbanville
Quite youthful and zesty with forward fruit. The palate has a
rounded, fruity character. This tastes youthful and a bit awkward,
but there’s lots of fruit here. Very good+ 85/100 (Tasted
subsequently – this has since developed and is nicely balanced
with a contrast between the richer, moe tropical notes and the
steely freshness.)
Graham
Beck Viognier 2004
Perfumed, fruity nose is quite bright with lemony, peachy fruit.
The palate is quite rich and rounded, with lovely soft texture to
the fruit. Very accessible and quite delicious, with just a subtle
hint of oak. Very good+88/100
Graham
Beck Shiraz 2003 Franschoek/Stellenbosch
From four vineayrds, 20 000 cases produced, aged mainly in
American oak. Nice dark fruits on the nose, which is quite sweet
with some spicy tarriness. The palate is concentrated and modern
with rich, spicy oak overlaying the fruit. A satisfying, full-on
wine. Very good+ 89/100
Graham
Beck The William 2001
A Cape blend with 65% Cabernet and 35% Pinotage. Lush, smooth
dark fruits nose with some refined gravelly notes. The palate is
concentrated and quite richly fruited with a sophisticated tarry,
minerally twist to the dark fruits on the palate. A lovely
concentrated, dark wine with some future ahead of it. Very
good/excellent 91/100
Graham
Beck The Joshua 2003
A Shiraz/Viognier blend. Lovely dark fruits nose with a
perfumed, slightly meaty twist. Deep and satisfying. The palate
shows a good concentration of rather elegant, well defined black
fruits. Good ripeness, some meatiness and also nice weight and
structure. Very good/excellent 92/100
Wines tasted 12/05
Find
these wines with wine-searcher.com
Back
to top
|