Visiting
Torres, one of Spain's most important wine producers
Part 2, Milmanda and Grans Muralles
Thereare 6000 hectares of vines in the Conca de Barberà region,
with Torres and Codorniu the biggest players. The Milmanda castle
dates from Medieval times, and from this property Torres make two
single-vineyard wines. Milmanda is a single-vineyard Chardonnay,
fermented and matured in French oak, spending 4–6 months on lees.
Grans Murrales is a red blend: the idea here was to make a big wine
with no Cabernet, Merlot or Syrah, instead relying on Spanish
varieties.
‘Milmanda’ means ‘small castle’.
This was originally built by the Visigoths, and it was then
fortified by the Arabs. It has a documented history of over 800
years. In the 16th century it became a palace. The property is 400
hectares in all, with 300 hectares of vineyards. Of these there are
85 hectares planted with Chardonnay, although only 15 of these are
used for Milmanda.
Looking
across to the neighbouring Cistercian monastery
The climate here is a combination of
Mediterranean and continental. There are very cool nights, but also
some maritime influence. The soils are silt and clay, overlying
limestone rich in calcium carbonate. The portions of the vineyard
without stones have deeper soils, rich in silt, and these are the
bits best for Chardonnay. There are also extremely rocky portions
with very little soil that suit the red varieties best. These are
adjacent to the dramatic old walls of the Cistercian monastery next
door, and these vineyards have been cultivated since the monks
introduced vines here in the 13th century.
Grans Murrales is made from Garnacha,
Cariñena, Monastrell and other local varieties such as Garro and
Samso. Torres are actively prospecting for lost varieties, for
example by putting adverts in local papers.
THE
WINES
Torres Milmanda Chardonnay 2008 Conca
de Barberà, Spain Rich, intense, toasty, nutty and rounded. Quite lively and
spicy. Rich with attractive ripe apple and nectarine fruit. Rounded,
rich and seamless with a broad texture. 92/100
Torres Milmanda Chardonnay 2009 Conca
de Barberà, Spain Fresh with citrus, ripe apple and pear fruit. Less rich than the
2008. Some toast, spice and mineral notes. Midweight and taut with
nice acidity. 91/100
Torres Milmanda Chardonnay 2010 Conca
de Barberà, Spain Nicely textured showing pear and peach fruit with some spice and
nuttiness. Well integrated oak. Rich but balanced with nice depth
and precision. 91/100
Torres Grans Muralles 2010 Conca de
Barberà, Spain Powerful, rich, sweet, ripe and vivid with berry fruits to the
fore. Fresh and well developed with nicely managed tannins. A lovely
ripe wine. 93/100
Torres Grans Muralles 2009 Conca de
Barberà, Spain Ripe and sweetly fruited with dense, spicy berry fruits. Very
sweet but with a savoury, spicy, grippy edge. A ripe, lush wine but
it still has good definition. Hints of chocolate and spice. 93/100
Torres Grans Muralles 2008 Conca de
Barberà, Spain Lovely perfume with a floral, violet edge to the berry fruits
and a hint of meatiness. The palate is spicy and meaty with a lively
grippy finish. I really like it now but I find it a bit bretty so
I’m not sure how it will develop. 92/100
Torres Grans Muralles 2007 Conca de
Barberà, Spain Spicy, savoury and rich with nicely intense sweet blackberry and
black cherry fruit, and a strongly spicy, savoury, bold quality.
Nice weight. Rich with some spicy oak. Needs time still. 93/100
