Lenné
Oregon wine country revisited, part 2

Steve Lutz (above) is the man
behind Lenné, a name which comes from Lenny, the name of his wife’s
father. Steve’s background? After spending a couple of years in
business, he worked in Napa for 13 years managing tasting rooms, and
made his first home made Pinot Noir in 1986 from Carneros. In 1992
he started a gourmet pizza business in Santa Rosa, California, which
he ran for five years. He sold it, went to England for a year and
came back to Oregon with his English wife Karen. He then worked at
Ann Amie, but finding himself in possession of some cash (hence the
naming of the winery after his father in law), he bought a 21 acre
property just east of Yamhill. He planted 15 acres of Pinot Noir
vines here, and in 2005 left Anne Amie, built a tasting room and
began to manage the vineyard full time. In 2007 he opened his
tasting room and began selling the inaugural 2004 vintage.

The vineyard is south facing, and has very old sedimentary soils.
Floods ran through here 10 000 years ago, and Steve claims that
these are the worst agricultural soils in the county, with very
little organic material. Establishing the vineyard was a real
struggle, but the advantage is that there are no problems with
excessive vigour. The clones of Pinot are all planted separately,
and Steve makes some single clone wines. He says that in the
beginning the single clones look better, but the blend of clones has
the potential to be better with time. There’s a little bit of
Chardonnay planted, and he’s going to graft a bit of the Pinot to
Chardonnay, with a view to making an annual production of around 100
cases. The vineyard is managed organically but isn’t certified.

The wines are currently made at Owen Roe, and Steve cites winemaker
David O’Reilly as his mentor. Steve is currently thinking about
building a custom crush facility. 60% of the wines are sold through
cellar door, but he’s also selling the wine through seven states,
the UK, Spain and Canada.

I asked him about recent vintages. 2011 was the coldest ever, and a
year ago the wines weren’t tasting nice. The Pinot was harvested on
November 1st (the vineyard was picked in a
single day). In the late years you run into bird and rain pressure,
but the cool vintages often make the best wines: they just don’t
show well when they are young. 2012 is interesting: the wines are
forward but the definitely have good structure from thicker skins
and smaller berries. He says they won’t last as long as the 08s, 10s
and 11s but they will be fairly long-lived.
THE WINES
Lenné Karen’s Vineyard Pinot Noir 2011 Oregon
Fresh bright cherries and plums with nice acidity and some
structure. Focused sweet fruit with real elegance. The fruit is
sweet but it’s really pure with a hint of chocolate. Lovely wine.
94/100
Lenné ‘Le Nez’ Pinot Noir 2012 Oregon
Very bright, fresh, supple and sweeet with ripe cherries. Open
and delicious with nice texture and a hint of chocolate. 90/100
Lenné Pinot Noir 2012 Oregon
Textured and fresh with nice depth, good structure and appealing
cherry and plum fruit. Generous texture here but also some structure
with good balance. Mainly Pommard and 115 clones. 94/100
Lenné Jill’s 115 Pinot Noir 2012 Oregon
Lovely sweet, floral aromatics here with red cherry and red
berries as well as some strawberry. Inviting. The palate is supple
and elegant with some sweetness but also lovely purity and
structure. Harmonious and silky with lovely finesse. 95/100
Lenné Karen’s Pommard Pinot Noir 2012 Oregon
Structured, fresh and bright with raspberry and cherry fruit. A
bit grippy and earthy with nice precision. Good structure with a
hint of chocolate, some black cherries and some spice. 93/100
Lenné Kill Hill Pinot Noir 2012 Oregon
This is clone 667. Sweet, rich and concentrated with dense,
spicy, ripe black cherry fruit, as well as some chocolatey notes.
Dense and tannic, this is a big wine with some potential. 93/100
Lenné Eleanor’s 114 Pinot Noir 2012 Oregon
Lovely texture with some subtle earth and spice notes. Slightly
chalky and nicely mineral, this has soft-grained tannins and hints
of earth, as well as red cherry and plum fruit. Easy and smooth and
drinking well now. 94/100
UK agent:
Alliance Wine
OREGON REVISITED
Matello
Lenné
Johan
Vineyards
J
Christopher
Brooks
Omero
Trisaetum
Colene-Clemens
Bergstrom
Adelsheim
Big
Table Farm
Westry
Walter
Scott
Antica
Terra
See
also:
Visiting
Oregon, July 2008 (series)
Wines
tasted 07/14
Find these wines with wine-searcher.com
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