Jamie Goode and Treve
Ring explore Sekt, Germany's sparkling wine
Part 8: the grand Sekt tasting
This
was an in depth look at some of Germany’s best traditional method
sparkling wines. It was a rare opportunity to try so many together.
We found plenty to like, and the quality was consistently high. In
addition to these notes, we included reviews with our profiles of
five leading producers, Reichsrat Von Buhl, Sekthaus Raumland,
Sekthaus Solter, Strauch Sektmanufaktur and Schloss Vaux.
Notes are from Jamie Goode
(JG) and Treve Ring (TR)
Schönleber Riesling Extra Brut 2013 Rheingau, Germany
Very fruity and bright with lovely open lemony fruit. Very
expressive and pure with lovely precision and a generous fruity
quality. Such balance and purity here: lovely wine. (JG) 90/100
Bright pear, fresh and creamy on the palate, is scented with lovely
anise. Focused, crisp and dry through the finish, lingering with
dried pear and dried apple and a rinse of pith. (TR) 91/100
Schlossgut Diel Dorsheim Goldloch Riesling Brut Nature 2008 Nahe,
Germany
Complex and intense with lovely crisp citrus fruits complemented by
richer melon and marmalade characters, together with some toast.
Crisp and pithy with real weight to the fruit. Very lively and
intense, this catches the character of Riesling really well. (JG)
91/100
Light white grapefruit pith leads into light smoked stones. Lemon
pith drives this finessed, fine and focused lighter-bodied sekt.
White flowers linger on the finish. (TR) 90/100
Frank John Riesling Sekt Brut 2012 Pfalz, Germany
Biodynamic. Complex and with some delicious herb and toast notes.
Lovely weight on the palate with some ripe apple and lemon fruit.
Really harmonious, detailed and with well integrated acidity. Lovely
balance to this wine, which is really serious. Rich but fresh. (JG)
92/100
Demeter certified, this leads with apple cider before dried apples
enter in. A fine bead of acidity carves out enough precision here to
carry even the Pfalz' richer fruit palate. (TR) 90/100
Schloss Wachenheim Edition Riesling Crémant Brut 2014 Pfalz, Germany
Tight, lemony
and toasty with nice weight of pear, white peach and spicy citrus
fruit. Really attractive fruit here with a grippy, pithy finish.
Lovely weight and focus. (JG) 89/100
You'll often see traditional method sekt from the Pfalz going with
the EU-sanctioned Cremant name. Here, one of the Pfalz' biggest sekt-makers
brings riper, warmer and round notes, with dried apples and dried
apricots dominating. A fuller and riper style common from the Pfalz,
though this carries a strong line of acidity to carry. Somewhat
rustic on the finish. (TR) 88/100
Bamberger Brut Nature Réserve Riesling 2010 Nahe, Germany
Herby, pithy edge to the palate. Bright with some structured lemony
fruit and a hint of wax. Nice linear fruit here: compact and dense
with lovely apple and lemon fruit. Concentrated and quite serious.
(JG) 90/100
This Nahe fizz is brut nature, with the fine, crisp acidity framing
this dry riesling. Toasted warm spices, dried apple and ginger
notes linger on the lengthy finish. (TR) 90/100
Bamberger Riesling Brut 2011 Nahe, Germany
Fresh and fruity
with lovely citrus peel and lemon notes. Nice depth of fruit here:
this is really expressive and fruity with an appealing sweet citrus
character. (JG) 90/100
Fine yellow fruits are based on quince and streaked with anise in
this Nahe brut. Eraser, ripe pear, yellow apple are easily carried
by a great line of acidity and textured with fine spicing. Lovely
drive. (TR) 91/100
Bamberger Riesling Brut 2012 Nahe, Germany
Distinctive,
vivid herby lemon fruit here. Pithy and open with a slight
bitterness. Needs time to open up. Crisp, herbal and lemony. (JG)
87/100
This vintage of Bamberger's Nahe Riesling Brut sees slightly sweeter
and riper pear, yellow apple to a rounder palate. Acidity is still
strong, but not as finessed and integrated as the 2011. (TR) 88/100
Sektkellerei Bardong Riesling Erbach Honigberg Extra Brut 2012
Rheingau, Germany
Rounded and fruity and bright with pleasant open citrus and herb
characters. Expressive and fruity with nice weight. Very fruity with
good acidity. (JG) 88/100
Light smoked stone creases the pear, anise and fine herbal notes of
this extra brut fizz. Stonework, pear, apple and moderate acidity
are well integrated, finishing with a distinct weed note. A
characterful wine. (TR) 91/100
Erich Stachel Riesling Extra Trocken 2014 Pfalz, Germany
Very appealing,
refined lemony nose. The palate shows dense, sweet fruit with lovely
purity. Lemons, apples and grapes here: really rounded and
attractive with lovely fruitiness. Quite delicious and a little
sweet. (JG) 89/100
An anise haze lingers on this ripe and round extra trocken sekt.
Sweetness is well handled by the line of orange pith, pear skin and
yellow apple. A shallow buzz of acidity on the finish. (TR) 89/100
Bernard-Massard Riesling Crémant Saarkristal Extra Trocken 2014
Germany
Very open, fruity and generous with grapes and lemons. Pure with
some sweetness. Simple and fun. (JG) 87/100
Sweeter styled, with dried apple and yellow fruits dominating. Brisk
acid finishes frothy on the finish. (TR) 88/100
Bardong Chardonnay Brut 2007 Rheingau, Germany
Open nose of
sweet peach and cabbage. The palate is developed with ripe apple and
some toast and cabbage characters. A bit of sweetness, too, and a
touch of rhubarb. (JG) 84/100
Ripe chardonnay is looking tired here, with dried apple leading the
round and fleshy palate. A nice layer of autolytic-led nuts ends
with a big grip and a chew of caramel. (TR) 85/100
Weingut Braunewell François Chardonnay Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs
NV Rheinhessen, Germany
Subtle herby
edge to the lovely apple and lemon fruit. Very stylish: plenty of
flavour, and some development, but also lovely finesse and
freshness. Complex and delicious. 93/100
Unique in its herbal anise, exotic lime leaf scent, and impressive
for its drive and focus. Herbal citrus buzzes through the finish.
Fresh, interesting. (TR) 91/100
Riffel Pinot Noir & Chardonnay Brut 2008 Rheinhessen, Germany
Lovely ripe fruit here with nice generous pear and spice, with some
ripe apple, a bit of melon and some citrussy bite. Finishes quite
pithy. A rich style. (JG) 89/100
Showing age. Hazelnut, light dough cominates the fuller palate,
though a line of lemon curd acidity is strong, finishing with a
pithy buzz. Drink now for a good example of aged Sekt. (TR) 89/100
Schätzle Pinot & Chardonnay Brut 2010 Baden, Germany
Toasty and rich
on the nose. Bold pear and citrus fruit palate with nice pithy
bitterness providing a counter. Fruity and lively with nice
brightness. Quite developed. (JG) 87/100
Dough, nuts, biscuits, toast and dried apple are shaped by a fist of
acidity, though the leesy autolytics overpower and feel somewhat
disjointed. If you are wanting a fuller, richer style to pair with
study roasted turkey or poultry, this chardonnay/pinot noir blend
may suit. (TR) 87/100
Ralph Anton Pinot Blanc de Noir Sekt Extra Trocken Kirrweiler
Mandelhöhe 2014 Pfalz, Germany
Generous and
ripe with rich apple and pear fruit. Bold and quite sweet with
lovely depth of fruit. Very rich and generous and quite sweet in
flavour. (JG) 90/100
Sweeter dried apple, dried pear are mitigated with a persistant line
of grippy orange acidity. Some pretty florals scent the finish. (TR)
88/100
EZG
Winzersekt Chardonnay Extra Trocken 2014 Rheinhessen, Germany
Ripe and sweetly fruited with lovely generous pear and citrus fruit,
together with subtle toast and nut character. Tastes quite sweet
with generous fruit at its core. (JG) 88/100
Perfumed white florals, lemon blossom lead this pretty and aromatic
extra trocken chardy sekt. Tight crystalline lemon acidity works
well to match off the citrus and pear fruit. (TR) 88/100
Bergdolt Klostergut St Lamprecht Weissburgunder Extra Brut 2013
Pfalz, Germany
Fruity and
lively with nice citrus and pear notes. Has a herby quality and some
sweetness. There’s a pithy note, too. Quite angular on the finish
but with nice density. (JG) 87/100
Highly aromatic, with smoked pear, rich quince and baked yellow
apple padding this Pfalz Weissburgunder fizz. A fine, though firm
bead of acidity carries the fruit through the finish. (TR) 88/100
Weinbiet Weissburgunder Esselhaut Brut 2014 Pfalz, Germany
Really pretty, lively fruit here: has a hint of pith, white plum and
pear fruit with lovely rounded texture and depth. Lovely freshness
and some nice candied fruits on the finish. A really stylish ripe
style. (JG) 91/100
Very perfumed, with pink florals cut with fine lime peel acidity.
This Weissburgunder comes across as a touch sweet and sour, though
finishes pleasantly enough with a riff of grapefruit. (TR) 87/100
Villa Heynburg Crémant Weissburgunder Brut 2014 Baden, Germany
Clean, fruity
and pure with lively pear and citrus fruit. Nice freshness and fruit
purity. An attractive, fresh, fruity style with nice purity. (JG)
88/100
A Weissburgunder brut from Baden, with fleshy peach, white peach and
light roses, brightened with a fine line of limey acidity. Orange
sherbet and tangerine pith grip on the finish. (TR) 89/100
Diel Cuvée MO Brut Nature Pinot Blanc & Pinot Noir 2008 Nahe,
Germany
Really dense and
complex with grippy, pithy, herb-tinged quince and lemon fruit, with
a bitter lime oil edge. Structured and powerful with nice weight of
fruit. Finishes dry and pithy. (JG) 89/100
Dominated by light toast, smoke and dough. Earthy and a touch sharp,
this tight fizz finishes with bitter lime. A little bit of fruit
sweetness would have suited this Brut Nature well. (TR) 87/100
Aldinger Brut Nature 2009 Württemberg, Germany
Equal parts blend of the Champagne varieties. Lively and herby with
a slight vegetal edge to the nicely toasty citrus fruit. It’s really
distinctive and quite pretty, with nice toast and apple notes on the
palate as well as some cherry and herb characters. Lovely depth.
(JG) 91/100
Matthias Gaul Mademoiselle Anne Zero Dosage NV Rheinhessen, Germany
Very fresh and pure with nice apple and lemon fruit, as well as
subtle toastiness. Lovely fruit quality here: I really like the
fruit focus and harmony, with a nice dry character to it. Still
quite generous because of the fruit ripeness. 92/100
Griesel & Compagnie Rosé Extra Brut 2013 Hessische-Bergstrasse,
Germany
Pale coloured.
Distinctive, herby, slightly bitter raspberry and lemon fruit. A
little odd. (JG) 84/100
Very small producer, smallest wine region in Germany. Crystalline
fruits. Light raspberry, roses. Dry and bright and riffing acidity.
Bacon notes. Lovely hum on the finish. Lively. (TR) 87/100
Bergdolt
Klostergut St. Lamprecht
Spätburguder Rosé
Cuvée Special 2011 Pfalz, Germany
Pale pink
colour. Slightly meaty with a spicy edge to the fresh, tart citrus
and cranberry fruit. Grippy and foucsed with a savoury, herby edge.
(JG) 87/100
Gentle dough and cherry, lead this bright and fine fizz, one driven
by lovely pithy grapefruit and tightened with green apple. A lightly
bitter note overtakes the pithy finish. (TR) 88/100
Gerhard Aenis Pinot Rosé Brut 2014 Baden, Germany
Organic. Bright
pink colour. Fresh, lively and fruity with cherries and tangerines.
Very bright, fruity style with nice purity and focus. Very pretty
and lively. 89/100
Hex
vom Dasenstein Pinot Rosé Trocken 2014 Baden, Germany
Bright pink in
colour. Sweet and fruity with ripe cherry and plum fruit. Lovely
sweetness to the fruit: this is a real crowd pleaser. Lovely purity.
(JG) 88/100
Raspberry jam, fresh strawberries are brightened with a hum of tight
acidity. Nice drive throughout to a snappy finish. (TR) 88/100
Braunewell Hommage 1816 Sylvaner Brut 2013 Rheinhessen, Germany
A cuvée produced
to celebrate 200 years of the region. Very fruity and lively with
lovely purity to the herb-tinged citrus fruits. Has some melony
richness, too, and a touch of pithiness. Very appealing with lovely
depth of fruit. Real focus to this wine. (JG) 90/100
Sylvaner lends an herbal line of lemongrass, white pepper and salts
to this tight and bright brut. A great riff of pithy pink grapefruit
acidity hums with fine acids. Distinct and characterful. (TR) 89/100
Nicole Graeber Gelber Muskateller Brut Nature 2014 Pfalz, Germany
Beautifully aromatic and very fruity with pure grape, pear and herb
notes. Very lively with a citrussy edge to the fruit. Some mandarin,
too. Lovely fruit to this wine, with great balance and purity. Dry
but with attractive fruit. (JG) 90/100
Highly perfumed with roses and fleshy peach countered by grippy
acidity and seasoned with spices. Brut Nature, this presents with a
sweetness gifted by the ample perfume of muscat. (TR) 88/100
Winzer Sommerach Silvaner Crémant Brut NV Franken, Germany
Lovely generous
fruit here: white peach, pear and a hint of melon. Subtle herby
notes and nice density of fruit. Very attractive and pure. Subtle
pithiness, too. (JG) 89/100
Distinctly sour beer in aroma, this Franken silvaner brut carries on
to baked yellow apple, baked pear and ginger spices. Ripe and round,
and disjointed to the short finish. (TR) 85/100
Doreas Muskat-Trollinger Rosé Prélude Brut 2014 Württemberg, Germany
Very pale pink.
Very pretty with a slight strawberry jelly and grape edge to the
pear fruit. Has lovely texture and it’s generous and easy with nice
lively fruitiness. Great balance to this wine. (JG) 89/100
A lovely herbal wild flower note is well balanced by a tight riff of
acidity. Orange pith, tangerine and mandarine oil line the palate,
finishing with perfumed pear and a gentle grip of pear skin. An
interesting rosé of Muskat and Trollinger. (TR) 88/100
Weingut Winterling 2014 Blanc de Blancs Cremant brut
Certified organic, this 100% Chardonnay spent 15 months on the lees
and is bottled with very low sulfites. Crisp and bright, with green
apple and fine cream on the palate, finishing with a lick of anise.
Lively. (TR) 89/100
Weingut Winterling 2014 Riesling Cremant brut
Bright with lime leaf to open onto a round, generous and cushioned
palate, reflective of the base wines’ time spent in wood. A fresh,
pithy lemon lingers on the finish. (TR) 88/100
Weingut Winterling 2014 Fleur de Rosé Cremant
75% Spatburgunder and 25% Chardonnay yield a very pale pink hue,
with strawberries and light cherry carries along a fine creamy
palate. The Spatburgunder was aged in barrels prior to secondary
fermentation, lending some depth to the palate. Acidity bright, with
light tannins framing the whole. (TR) 90/100
Weingut Winterling Blanc de Blancs S brut
Riesling, Weissburgunder and Gewurztraminer were wild fermented in
large wooden barrels before spending 15 months there on the lees.
Very floral, with white blossom, peach and anise dominating this
fruity fizz. Finishes with a gentle sweetnesss at 6g/l. (TR) 88/100
Weingut Winterling 2014 Sommerling
Quite distinctive, this is a blend of 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30%
Riesling, targeted solely at summer tourist season and with 8000
bottles/annual production. It has proven so popular they are
actively looking to purchase more land to plant additional Sauvignon
Blanc grapes. The winery places dry ice (frozen CO2) into the empty
press and tanks before the fruit to remove any contact with oxygen,
preserving Sauvignon’s character. Here green, grass and passionfruit
leap from the glass, with pithy tangerine spicing on the finish.
Bright and juicy, and one of the most successful sparkling
Sauvignon’s I’ve tasted. New Zealand, take note. (TR) 90/100
Wilhelmshof 2012 Blanc de Noir brut
Whole bunch Pinot Noir is used in this Blanc de Noir, with the
winery finding that acidity is 1-2 g/l higher using whole bunch
pressing. Earthy red apple and gooseberry jostle on a looser and
watery palate. The finish is slightly harsh with raspberry and red
grapefruit pith. (TR) 87/100
Wilhelmshof 2009 Patina Blanc de Noir brut
Fresh apple is cut with apple cider sharpness, leading into fruity
notes of orange, yellow apple, and melon. Biscuit and pear take over
on the fresh palate, one that lingers with pretty floral perfume on
the finish. Still quite fresh and alive. (TR) 88/100
EXPLORING SEKT
Wines
tasted 09/16
Find these wines with wine-searcher.com
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