Rustenberg
A large, beautiful family-owned wine estate,
Stellenbosch revisited part 5
Rustenberg was the next visit. No time
for a tour round this most beautiful wine estate (which I visited
last in 2005), so it was straight to the tasting, with owner
Simon Barlow and his son Murray (pictured above).
It's a 950 hectare estate with 120
hectares of vines. The annual crush is around 1000 tons, with 65 000
cases produced each year. Recently, the Brampton brand was sold –
this was a lower-priced range of
more commercial wines that had been successful. This left a
gap in the range, and Rustenberg have now introduced two more
affordable wines into their range.
Murray Barlow has just finished his
masters degree in Adelaide, and is now involved in the family
business, which has been in the Barlow's hands for 72 years.
Rustenberg has a great reputation for
Chardonnay. The Stellenbosch Chardonnay is always the fastest
selling wine, and when I visited was sold out. The winemaking for
this wine is quite interventionist, says Simon, 'there is a recipe
for making this'. The fruit is whole-bunch pressed, lightly settled
and goes to barrel (30% new). It's a wild ferment, which sometimes
results in a little more residual sugar, but this is part of the
style. Five Soldiers is the top Chardonnay, picked slightly earlier
and from a single vineyard. Half of the oak is new, and it spends 15
months in barrel. Of the reds, Bordeaux varieties are the focus,
although an impressive Syrah was introduced a few years ago. The
value wine here is the John X Merriman, which has a capacity to age
that belies its modest price tag. Peter Barlow is the real deal: a
substantial wine that's ripe but balanced and which ages very
nicely.
THE
WINES
Rustenberg Sauvignon Blanc 2011
Western Cape, South Africa
A blend of Stellenbosch and Elgin fruit. Ripe, fresh and
aromatic with nice fruitiness. The palate shows lovely fruit
precision and good acid. Pear and peach richness coupled with citrus
freshness. 90/100
Rustenberg Roussanne 2011 Stellenbosch,
South Africa
Quite rich yet fresh with rounded pear and peach fruit, as well
as some spiciness. Still quite fresh despitethe ripeness, with herb,
nut and honey notes. 91/100
Rustenberg Ida's White 2011 Western
Cape, South Africa
An inexpensive blend of Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Viognier
designed to take the place of the Brampton wines. Very fresh, ripe,
fruity and crisp with sweet pear, peach and citrus fruit. Crisp yet
generous. 88/100
Rustenberg Chardonnay 2011
Stellenbosch, South Africa
Toasty, broad and complex with some spiciness on the nose. Rich
and intense with toast, fig and peach on the powerful palate. Ripe,
complex and balanced. 93/100
Rustenberg Five Soldiers Chardonnay
2009 Stellenbosch, South Africa
Rich, mealy, toasty, buttery, spicy nose. The palate is dense
and complex with intense, textured fruit including some melony
richness, as well as a soft nuttiness. A thrilling Chardonnay.
94/100
Rustenberg Ida's Red 2011 Western
Cape, South Africa
Gravelly, rich and sweet with fresh berry and plum fruits. The
palate shows lovely fresh cherry and plum fruit with nice definition
and some gravelly structure. Lovely drinkable wine with a hint of
seriousness. 90/100
Rustenberg Merlot 2010 Stellenbosch,
South Africa
Deep coloured. Sweet berry fruits nose with some spicy, gravelly
savouriness. The palate has fresh, sweet, pure berry fruits. Stylish
wine with lovely purity. 92/100
Rustenberg RM Nicholson 2010
Stellenbosch, South Africa
Ripe, rich, sweet blackberry nose. Pure, inviting and nicely
aromatic. The palate is fresh with nice vivid fruit. Well defined,
ripe and generous with good structure and fine-grained tannins.
93/100
Rustenberg John X Merriman 2009
Stellenbosch, South Africa
Fresh and gravelly on the nose with intense black fruits, as
well as some savoury spicy notes. The palate is fresh, grippy and
structured with some chocolatey notes alongside the sweet black
fruits. Just a hint of mint. Good ageing potential. 94/100
Rustenberg Syrah 2009 Stellenbosch,
South Africa
Sweet, lush, ripe blackberry and black cherry fruit nose. The
palate is ripe, lush and pure with sweet, soft textured, generous
fruit. Smooth, ripe mouthfeel. Stylish if quite ripe. 93/100
Rustenberg Peter Barlow 2006
Stellenbosch, South Africa
Sweetly aromatic and gravelly with lush smooth sweet black
fruits. Wonderfully pure, sweet palate has good definition.
Fine-grained tannins provide structure: a lovely ripe wine. 95/100
Rustenberg Peter Barlow 2007
Stellenbosch, South Africa
Fresh, vivid nose of blackberry and spice, with tar and
blackcurrant bud. Ripe and smooth but with edges. Fresh, vivid,
structured, well defined palate has good acid and some spicy, tarry
notes. Needs time. 94/100
Rustenberg Straw Wine 2010
Stellenbosch, South Africa
A blend of Chenin and Viognier, made from healthy raisined
fruit. This is sweet, viscous and supple with honey, spice and
apricot notes. Luscious and nicely complex. 93/100
STELLENBOSCH
REVISITED
Part
1, Waterkloof
Part
2, Waterford
part
3, Reyneke
Part
4, Kanonkop
Part 5, Rustenberg
Part
6, Meerlust
Part
7, Delheim
Part 8,
Thelema
Part
9, Neil Ellis
Part
10, Tokara
Part
11, Oldenburg
Wines
tasted 03/12
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