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Austrian
wines
Part
3: Weninger
Weingut
Weninger, Florianigasse 11, A-7312 Horitschon, Austria
Tel: +43 2610 42165 0 Fax: +43 2610 42165 50
Website: www.weninger.com
e-mail: weingut@weninger.com
It’s a common theme throughout many of Europe’s
wine growing regions. In 1982 Franz  Weninger (right) took over a seven hectare
estate from his parents. At the time, the wine from the property was
being sold in by the barrel-load to bulk purchasers, and only a small
amount was bottled for a loyal band of regular customers. Franz, however, decided to take more pride in what his land
was giving him, and in 1983 his Blaufränkisch Kabinett aroused the
curiosity of the outside world: this was a good quality red wine from
Austria, at that time a rarity. Since then Franz has built his
reputation as the producer of some of Austria’s top red wines.
Weninger is located in Horitschon, in the Burgenland
region; altogether there are 23 hectares of vines. The soils are deep,
moderately heavy to heavy loamy topsoils, rich in clay and iron. The
largest-planted grape is Blaufränkisch, but other varieties include
Merlot, Zwiegelt, Cabernet Sauvignon, St Laurent and Blauer Burgunder.
It’s almost exclusively red wine here, folks, and some 10 000 cases
are made annually.
Things must be going well, because they have built a
swanky new winery and tasting room. The latter is very stylish: style
seems to be important here, as reflected by the fantastic label design, which is modern yet quite
classic. Beautifully poised. The wines follow a similar theme. They
are concentrated and rich, yet avoid being over-modern and in a
faceless international style. Instead, Franz seems to bring out the
character and personality of his vineyard sites in these expressive,
deep, fresh red wines.
Weninger Blaufränkisch Hochäcker 2002
Aged in large oak and used barriques. Deep colour. Quite a
serious, savoury nose of dark fruits. Firm, savoury, spicy palate with
a minerally intensity to the dark fruits. This leads  to
a firm, savoury, spicy palate with a mineral intensity to the dark
fruits and good acidity. This is a firm, bright, savoury red with some
depth to it. Pleasant spicy bitter plumminess on the finish: a good
food wine. Very good+ 89/100
Weninger St Laurent 2002
This is a structured example of what is usually a lighter grape.
Open nose of spicy, herby dark fruits: tight and full. The palate is
fresh and quite elegant with herb-tinged fruit and good acidity. There
is some tannic structure along with the fresh fruit. A little austere
at the moment but real potential for development. Very good+ 88/100
Weninger St Laurent 2001
Open nose of cherryish fruit. Bright palate with a lovely elegant
palate displaying cherryish, red berry fruit with nice acidity. Fresh
and fruity: a satisfying lighter, fruity food wine. This is drinking
better than the 2002 now, but the 2002 will likely be a better wine in
time. Very good+ 88/100
Weninger Blaufränkisch Reserve 2002
This wine spends 15–18 months is barriques, the majority new,
and malolactic fermentation is carried out in barrel. It shows an
intense, tarry black fruits nose with well integrated oak. The palate
is concentrated and intense with great depth of spicy dark fruits and
some dark chocolate and spice on the finish. Good acidity and well
defined, firm but refined. Lots of potential here for the future. Very
good/excellent 92/100
 Weninger Veratina 2002
A blend including Blaufränkisch, Merlot, Zwiegelt and Cabernet.
Tight, herby, taut nose showing complex red and black fruits with a
herby edge. The palate is herby with a tight tannic and acid
structure, and beguiling spicy complexity. Well integrated oak: a more
international style but still very nice. Very good/excellent 90/100
Weninger Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
The vines are 16 years old: for the first few years the wines were
very green and Franz wanted to pull them out, but now he is happy he
didn’t. Very deep coloured. Intense, dark nose of spicy black
fruits. A brooding, dark wine. The palate is elegant with mouthfilling
savoury dark fruits and spicy structure. A stylish modern-yet-elegant
wine with great food compatibility. Very good/excellent 92/100
Weninger Merlot 2001
Sweet ripe fruit on the nose with a spicy, dark edge. The palate
has lots of ripe red fruits with some spicy structure. Very focused
and appealing but with a serious side to it. Very good/excellent
90/100
Weninger Merlot 2002
Very bright dark cherry and black fruits nose with a spicy sheen
and hints of dark chocolate. The palate shows lush dark fruit with
some firm tannins hiding underneath. Elegant dark fruits dominate
here: this is modern but not showy and has great food compatibility.
Real potential for development. Very good/excellent 91/100
Weninger Dürrau 2002
This flagship wine is from a single vineyard, purchased in 1996.
1999 was the first harvest, so here we are tasting a complete vertical
– none was made in 2001. 45 year old vines planted at 6000 vines per
hectare. 2500–3000 bottles made each year. This has an intoxicating
nose of sweet, deep cherry and berry fruit with alluring depth. Smooth
and intense. The palate is powerful and elegant with wonderful fruit
quality. Spicy and full with good acidity. This wine has lots of
personality: it is not a blockbuster but it shows good concentration
and elegance. Very good/excellent 94/100
Weninger Dürrau 2000
Open ripe, slightly herby dark fruits on the nose: quite elegant
and smooth. The palate is ripe and elegant with berry fruits and a
spicy, minerally edge. Delicious and really hitting its stride with
smooth tannins and great weight and balance. Very good/excellent
93/100
Weninger Dürrau 1999
Ripe, smooth and open nose with a hint of herbiness to the fruit.
There’s a heady sweetness, too. The palate is open and ripe with
lovely minerally structure underpinning the midweight berry fruit.
Herby and elegant. A thought-provoking wine that is beginning to open
out. Very good/excellent 92/100
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