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Austrian
wines part 6
Hans
Schwarz
 Hans
Schwarz is a butcher. He’s a big man, and so are his wines. He’s
best chums with Alois Kracher, and together they make wines from
Hans’ vineyards – has has 13 hectares, of which Alois rents five.
I met him at the Kracher tastings, where he was running
the grill, turning out some very tasty meat.
You’ve got to admire these wines for their in-yer-face
quality, even if they may not be to everyone’s taste. If you are
looking for finesse and subtlety, go elsewhere, but if you want a
white knuckle, high octane experience, come aboard the good ship
Schwarz.
Schwarz Cuvée White 2000 Neusiedlersee
This bold white wine is a blend of Chardonnay and Grüner Veltliner.
Deep yellow in colour with rich, intense sweet fruit and toasty oak on
the nose. The palate is rich, intense and almost viscous, with great
concentration of fruit and some vanilla notes. Very good/excellent
90/100
Schwarz Cuvée White 2002 Neusiedlersee
Golden yellow. Alluring, rich nose with notes of sweet herbs and
vanilla. Well defined. The palate is viscous and rich with a lovely
texture and herb-tinged ripe peachy fruit. Viscous and full, this is
almost Viognier-like. Very good/excellent 91/100
Schwarz Zweigelt 2000 Neusiedlersee
A varietal Zweigelt. Very rich, ripe and fruity with smooth black
fruits and a tarry edge. Almost Australian. Sweetly fruited with some
structure: an amazingly bold style. Very good/excellent 90/100
Schwarz Zweigelt 2001 Neusiedlersee
Ripe, smooth dark fruits nose is slightly less showy than the
2002. Firm, quite structured palate with some complexity and lovely
taut fruit. Some substance here: this is really nice. Very
good/excellent 92/100
Schwarz Zweigelt 2002 Neusiedlersee
Very sweet, ripe open nose with alluring ripe fruit. Very sweet,
liquoricey and expressive. The palate shows ripe sweet open fruit and
some spicy oak: this is an unashamedly modern-styled wine. Lovely.
Very good/excellent 91/100
Availability
in the UK: Noel Young Wines
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