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Milbrandt Vineyards
Part 11, Washington State: visiting one of North America's leading wine
growing regions
Butch
Milbrandt is a fourth generation farmer. He arrived in Washington
State (from Oregon), aged 9 in 1954 along with his brother Jerry.
They started farming together in 1969, and in 1997 realized that
grapes were an ideal crop for where they are. So they began planting
vineyards. Initially they sold everything under contract to Chateau
Ste Michelle, but now sell to some 30 wineries, as well as making
wine under contract for around 20 wineries (mostly second label
stuff in the range $12-17). Clients include Charles Smith, Powers
and Chateau Ste Michelle, among others.
This
is a pretty big operation. Butch and Jerry have 2500 acres of vines
between them, and this is soon going to rise to 3000. Butch says
that Jerry, who’s now 68, is building his own winery and with this
growth the Milbrandt brothers expect to be crushing 20 000 tons in
three years (currently they average around 13 000 tons). Their
vineyards are located in the Ancient Lakes AVA and the Wahluke Slope
AVA, and grow 27 different varieties. They own five machine
harvesters!
Milbrandt made their first wines in 2005, and their range is now 19
strong. Their first winemaker was Gordy Hill, and in 2011 he left to
be replaced with Josh Maloney. Production is around 60 000 cases.
Butch
says that they are skewing their production more to reds, because
this is what people are looking for. He also says that rosé is
getting bigger and bigger. His personal favourite Washington State
wine? Merlot. ‘Washington does an awesome job with Merlot,’ says
Butch. ‘It is probably the variety we should hang our hat on.’
THE WINES
Milbrandt Vineyards Pinot Gris 2014 Washington State
Lively, youthful and fruity with bright citrus and pear.
Focused. 86/100
Milbrandt Vineyards Traditions Riesling 2013 Washington State
Lively, taut and citrussy. Vivid with some grip. Zippy and
nicely fruity with a hint of sweetness. 88/100
Milbrandt Vineyards Traditions Rosé 2014 Washington State
Syrah and Sangiovese. Bright pink colour. Bright, fresh cherry
and cranberry flavours with attractive fruitiness. 87/100
Milbrandt Vineyards Brothers Blend 2012 Washington State
Seven different varieties. Bright, fresh, accessible and fruity
with sweet juicy berry fruits. Smooth and drinkable. 88/100
Milbrandt Vineyards The Estates Merlot
2011 Washington State
50% new oak, a mix of French and American. 14.5% alcohol. Sweet,
supple and nicely textured with hints of cinnamon and spice. Easy,
rounded, pure and quite tasty. 87/100
Milbrandt Vineyards The Estates Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2012
Washington State
This has a quarter new French oak and 10% new American oak. 15%
alcohol. Spicy, chocolatey edge to the vivid berry fruits. Sweet,
ripe, spicy palate with berries, vanilla and chocolate. Quite
convincing. 89/100
Milbrandt Vineyards The Estates Syrah Northridge Vineyard 2012
Washington State
15.5% alcohol, pH 3.98. Ripe, sweet and rich. Jammy blackberry
and blackcurrant fruit. Soft textured and sweet. 86/100
Milbrandt Vineyards Sentinel 2012 Washington State
Cabernet Sauvignon (71%) with Malbec (23%) and a bit of Merlot
and Petit Verdot. 16% alcohol. Rich, ripe, warm and powerful with
lush liqueur-like black fruits and some sappy, spicy framing.
Powerful stuff. 88/100
WASHINGTON STATE WINES
 Introduction
Betz
Columbia
Winery
De
Lille
WT
Vintners
Savage
Grace
Chateau
Ste Michelle
Andrew
Will
Airfield
Estates
Hedges
Milbrandt
Vineyards
Ciel
du Cheval Vineyard
Col
Solare
Powers/Badger
Mountain
J
Bookwalter
Pacific
Rim
Gordon
Estate
Long
Shadows
Seven
Hills
Charles
Smith
Geology
with Kevin Pogue
Leonetti
Woodward
Canyon
Gramercy
Cellars
L'Ecole
No 41
Columbia
Crest
Maryhill
Memaloose/Idiot's
Grace
COR
Cellars
Syncline
Wines
tasted 06/15
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