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Austrian wines part 10

What a name. Too many t's, s's, c's and h's. Really good wines, though. Jurtschitsch is one of those producers that hides in the shadows a little. In the roll call of Austria's best producers, they often fall off the bottom of the list. It's unfair, because these are really good wines; the best of them are utterly world class.

As we arrive we are met by Paul (right), one of the Jurtschitch brothers. There are three of them, Edwin, Paul and Karl, responsible for winegrowing, winemaking and marketing, respectively. You have to admire any family enterprise that can work in such a harmonious way. Families are the way to run wine estates: in a business that relies so heavily on what went before, and where the results of the work done now are largely reaped by subsequent generations, the continuity family ventures provide is ideal. The impatience of shareholders is disastrous in the business of developing a top wine estate.

Jurtschitsch Grüner Veltliner Alte Reben 2003
From 45 year old vines on clay soil. Quite a deep colour with a nice full nose showing a little pepperiness to the slightly herby fruit. The palate is full and rich with lovely density of fruit. Am expressive ripe fruity style with a precise peppery character. Almost aromatic. Very good/excellent 91/100

Jurtschitsch Grüner Veltliner Alte Reben 2002
This vintage saw floods in August with 300 mm rain on 8th and 9th of the month. A fine September and late harvest saved the quality, turning it into a good vintage. Quite a firm, precise peppery nose which is fresh and shows hints of honey. Savoury, firm, precise palate with lovely herbiness. Tasty. Very good+ 89/100

These bottles aren't as old as they look: perhaps late 1970s. They just accumulate this 
gunk in good cellars.

Jurtschitsch Grüner Veltliner Schenkenbichl 2003
From the northern part of the Langenlois, fermented in bigger barrels. Intoxicating, rich nose is full and fruity with notes of honey and lots of pepperiness. Quite intense and expressive. The palate is expressive and quite rich but with a lovely savoury spiciness. Fantastic balance between the rich fruit and the spiciness. 14.5% alcohol, 5.6 g/l acid and 3.7 g/l residual sugar. Very good/excellent 93/100

Jurtschitsch Grüner Veltliner Schenkenbichl 2002
Distinctive herbal character to the ripe full nose. It’s very aromatic with some pepperiness. The palate is concentrated, full and savoury with lovely fresh acidity. Good concentration and nice balance; less showy and a bit fresher than the 2003. 13.5% alcohol, 5.5 g/l acid and 3.3 g/l residual sugar. Very good/excellent 91/100  

Jurtschitsch Grüner Veltliner Spiegel Reserve 2003
Part fermented in barriques. Freshness to the nose, which is fruity and lemony with some peppery spiciness. Youthful. The palate has some richness, a hint of woodiness and lovely richness of texture. Quite classy and precise; youthful and with potential. Very good/excellent 90/100

Jurtschitsch Grüner Veltliner Spiegel Reserve 2002
Lovely open nose with some aromatic herbiness, ripe (almost sweet) fruit and some pepperiness. Complex. Very rich, savoury, full textured palate is quite rounded. Bready, vanilla notes back up the herby fruit. Oak is evident. Very good/excellent 91/100

Jurtschitsch Chardonnay Reserve Reid Ladner 2002
Nice nose shows a combination of toasty, bready oak with lovely rich herby fruit. Expressive and well integrated. The palate is savoury and full with nutty, toasty fruit, some vanilla notes and a bready character. Classy and balanced. Very good/excellent 91/100

Jurtschitsch GrüVe 2003
Their massive commercial success: a bright, inexpensive
Grüner Veltliner with a striking label design that changes each year. Fresh, peppery and very bright with a spicy character. Simple and full.

Grüner Veltliner

Jurtschitsch Riesling Zöbinger Heiligenstein Reserve 2003
Expressive, aromatic, spicy limey nose. The palate is rounded and expressive, showing some richness to the fruit and a nice spiciness on the finish. Lots of potential to this concentrated wine. Very good/excellent 90/100

Jurtschitsch Riesling Zöbinger Heiligenstein Reserve 2002
Very expressive nose is full and herby, with good density. The palate is concentrated and spicy with a limey acidity backing up the full, concentrated lemony fruit. A dense yet expressive wine. Very good/excellent 93/100

Jurtschitsch Riesling Auslese Zöbinger Heiligenstein 1999
Very open, expressive perfumed lemony nose with some honeyed sweetness. The palate is rich, expressive, rounded and sweet with lovely acidity providing balance. It’s medium dry. Quite a rich wine but with some finesse and delicacy too. Fantastic stuff. Very good/excellent 94/100

Grüner Veltliner Spiegel Eiswein 2002
With 10.5% alcohol, 8.8 g/l acid and 203 g/l sugar, this is a wild wine. Yellow/gold colour. Sweet nose of pure, candied fruits. The palate is rich, smooth and concentrated with lovely balance. Very pure and focused showing peachy tropical fruit notes. Viscous and full. Very good/excellent 92/100

Jurtschitsch Grüner Veltliner Steinhaus 1979
One from the archives. It’s yellow with a hint of gold. Fresh nose is subtly herbal with a hint of pepperiness. Quite precise. The palate is fresh with a gently herbal edge and some lemony fruit. Quite a savoury finish. Very dry: the palate has flattened and thinned out a bit. An interesting, delicate old wine.

Jurtschitsch Rotspon Reserve 2002
A blend of 50% Pinot Noir, 40% Zweigelt and 10% Merlot, with 50% new oak. Fresh, savoury, taut berry fruits nose is a little shy. The palate is chewy and spicy with fresh bright fruit and a taut, spicy character. A nice savoury food wine. Very good+ 87/100

Jurtschitsch Zwiegelt Tanzer Reserve 2002
Open nose showing a caramelly edge to the rather woody red fruits. The palate is tight and woody with some fresh fruit. Very good+ 85/100

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