Austrian
wines part 12
Stadt
Krems
Weingut
Stadt Krems, A-3500 Krems, Stadtgraben 11, Austria
T: +43-2732-801-441, F: +43-2732-801-442
E: weingut@krems.gv.at; www.weingutstadtkrems.at
The boyish-looking Fritz Miesbauer (right) has
already established quite a reputation. One of a two-man team, he propelled the cooperative Freie Weingartner Wachau
(FWW) to the
forefront of the Austrian wine scene before having to leave. FWW’s
loss was the gain of Weingut Stadt Krems, and in just a couple of
years (Fritz was appointed in July 2003) he’s made this previously
slumbering producer one to watch out for.
Stadt Krems is rather unusually owned by the
municipality of Krems, and has 30 hectares of vineyards all within the
city limits. It has been making wine for 550 years. The wines I tried from the 2003 vintage, which were the first
ones made here by Fritz, are very impressive.
Interestingly, Miesbauer is adopting the novel Vinolok
closure for some of the wines: this is a glass stopper with a plastic
sealing gasket, topped with a metal cap.
Stadt Krems Grüner
Veltliner Sandgrube 2003
This is a vineyard that is a mixture of sand and loess, with the
grapes picked at the end of Septmember. Fresh, modern fruity nose is
quite refined, leading to a rich palate with full texture and some
freshness. Very good+ 87/100
Stadt Krems Grüner
Veltliner Weinzierlberg 2003
Quite a bright peppery nose, which is modern, clean and crisp with
some interest. The palate is dense and quite concentrated showing a
rich, smooth texture and a peppery finish. Savoury style with high
acid. Very good+ 89/100
Stadt Krems Grüner
Veltliner Wachtberg 2003
This is a 12th century vineyard with gneiss and loess terraces.
Clean grapes harvested on 7th November. 1.5 days skin contact and then
the wine is fermernted in 2000 litre oak barrels with natural yeasts.
There’s a savoury, spicy, peppery density here. Fresh with some
complexity. The palate is quite richly textured with some fruit
sweetness and a nice spiciness. A rich, expressive wine: pure and
quite full. Very good/excellent 91/100
Stadt Krems Grüner
Veltliner Reserve 2003
Harvested on the 15/16 November, and including some selected
botrytis bunches. Handled in the same way as the Wachtberg. Weighs in
at 14.5% alcohol. Very rich, intense nose showing full sweet, herby
fruit with a pronounced peppery overlay. Concentrated, rich, smooth
palate with an intense peppery edge to the sweet fruit. Finishes dry.
Very good/excellent 93/100
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Nice new stainless steel tanks |
2000 litre casks |
Stadt Krems Riesling Kögl
2003
Very bright, fresh limey nose with some minerality. The palate is
fresh, full and minerally, showing good balance. Quite straightforward
in a lean, minerally style. Delicious. Very good/excellent 90/100
Stadt Krems Riesling
Grillenparz 2003
From 100% gneiss soils and 48 year old vines. Fresh, savoury,
fruity nose. The palate is rounded and full with nice fruit. Some
plumpness in a rich style, although a little simple now. Very good+
89/100
Stadt Krems Riesling
Reserve 2003
Picked 17 November, fermented in 2000 litre barrels with natural
yeasts. Lovely aromatic nose that is crisp and perfumed with subtly
lemony fruit. Nice richness to the expressive palate. Delicate but
quite fat at the same time: fantastic. Rich round fruit with a hint of
sweetness – a very expressive wine. 13.5% alcohol and 21 g/l
residual sugar. Very good/excellent 93/100
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A publicity pic from Wine & Partners showing Kathrin
Bründlmayer, Fritz Miesbauer, Leopold Figl and Julia Nachförg
in the Kögl vineyard. It's very Eurovision, isn't it. Pass the
cheese. |
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