Veritas/Rolf Binder Wines
Veritas has recently had to change its name to Rolf
Binder wines. It’s a shame, really – the reason was because of
disputed ownership of the name and the risk of legal action.
Ownership of names is a funny issue: Veritas have happily been using
theirs for the 50 years or so of their existence and now they have
to change it. Doesn't seem fair to me.
Veritas was founded by an Austrian migrant, the father
of Rolf Binder who currently runs things here, and its focus
was originally on fortifieds, which formed the bulk of the
output of the Barossa for quite some time. Rolf was trained at
Roseworthy, and changed the direction of the company, shifting
emphasis to dry red wines. Over the last decade Veritas has
shown strong growth, from processing 50 tons of fruit to 500
each year, with a current output in the range of 30 000 cases.
Rolf has some great old vine vineyards, most notably
Heysen and Hanisch (next to the winery). White wine making is
handled by Rolf’s sister, Christa, while Kym Teusner handles
I liked these wines a lot. My only criticism is the
perceptible presence of new American oak in a couple of them,
when I feel they’d be better without this. But that’s just
Christa Rolf Shiraz Grenache 2003
Lovely nose of really open, forward raspberry fruit. Sweet and
very appealing. Delicious ripe fruit on the palate with a nice
earthy, spicy structure hiding under it. Vibrant and reasonably
serious. Very good/excellent 90/100
Heinrich Shiraz Mataro Grenache 2002
Another alluring sweet ripe nose of sweet raspberry and
blackberry fruit, but with a more savoury, almost animally
twist. Dark, meaty and spicy. The palate is savoury and
structured with delicious pure fruit. The oak is unobtrusive.
Very good/excellent 92/100
A little friend hiding in the
trunk of an old vine
Shiraz Mataro Pressings ‘Binders Bull’s Blood’
Sweet dark fruits nose with some subtle coconut and vanilla new
oak present. The palate shows richly concentrated fruit with some
creamy richness from the oak. Big and quite tannic, in a bold style.
This is essentially declassified Hanisch and Heysen. Very
2002 (vineyard is pictured right)
Tasted at dinner the previous night with Kym Teusner. A big,
rich style with some creamy coconut oak showing, but with very
fine-grained structure. A substantial, classy red. Perhaps a touch
too much American oak showing at the moment. Very good/excellent
Dark, intense, brooding nose with lots of dark fruit and spice,
together with a touch of coconut oak. Plenty of impact. The palate
is hugely concentrated and quite structured, with smooth tannins.
Lots of blueberry, blackberry and raspberry fruit, still quite
primary. Very good/excellent 93/100