The wines of Kamil Barczentewicz, a leading light from Poland
Kamil Barczentweicz is making some stunning wines from central southeast Poland. He’s planted 11.5 hectares in stages, beginning in 2017, on soils that have some limestone. From 2024 he’s certified organic, and all the wines are wild fermented.
Kamil Barczentweicz Béton Pinot Blanc 2022 Poland
This was fermented and aged for 8-10 months in concrete eggs on gross lees. Fine, mineral and textural with lovely balance, showing amazing texture and refinement. There’s a slight saltiness too. 94/100
Kamil Barczentweicz Béton Chardonnay 2022 Poland
Settled for 24 h and then fermented in concrete eggs. Limestone soils. Very fine and delicate, with supple citrus fruit, a touch of cherry and real finesse and elegance. Fine grained with nice tension and a touch of salinity. 94/100
Kamil Barczentweicz Gewürztraminer 2022 Poland
This comes from the top of the hill where the soils are clay/sand/loess. Grapey aromatics with some rose petal hints. The palate has nice texture and lovely balance, with some elegance. 93/100
Kamil Barczentewicz Pinot Noir Dobre Major 2022
Solid limestone bedrock here. 25% Fruhburgunder in the blend this year. Fully destemmed. Wild ferment in a wooden cask, then aged 60% in used barrels and 40% stainless steel.Nice fruit here: juicy cherry and strawberry with good freshness, but it’s also properly ripe. Supple and focused with a nice mineral edge, and a touch of savoury spiciness on the finish. Finishes with good structure. Impressive. 93/100
Kamil Barczentweicz Dobre Modre Blaufränkisch 2022 Poland
Kamil is close to Lublin in the SE part of Poland, nearest to the biggest Polish river, Vistula, which runs between Krakow and Warsaw. They have limestone soils here and the river modulates the continental climate of the east. He started in 2017 and focuses almost exclusively on vinifera (3% of Souvignier Gris). 0.6 ha plot of Blaufränkisch, which is the largest in Poland. Gentle extraction and then wild ferment and ageing in 60% in barrel with French, Slavonian and Hungarian oak, the rest ageing in stainless steell. This is bright and focused with lovely focused black cherry and raspberry fruit, with a lovely freshness and a peppery edge. Such elegance, focus and purity here: this is a remarkable expression of Blaufränksich with real beauty to it. 95/100
