Impressive Dão wines from Julia Kemper
There’s something special about Portugal’s Dão wine region, and there’s now a roll call of producers doing really good things here. Among them is Julia Kemper.
Her family (the Melos) were winegrowers, while she pursued a career as a lawyer in Lisbon. In 2000 Julia inherited her father’s vines, she began farming organically in 2003, and in 2008 began releasing wines under her own name.
The family farm is Quinta do Cruzeiro, and altitude here hits 700 m. The 15 hectares of vines were all replanted in 2003.
There have been some changes here. Julia has changed the labels and rethought the entire range. These changes came in two years ago.
Four years ago they changed viticulturist and have been trying to work better on this side of things. They are more precise with their picks (which span August to October), working with the resident enologist Nuno Bastos. This is his first job outside Bairrada, where he was a sparkling specialist.
THE WINES
Julia Kemper 2CV Branco 2023 Dão, Portugal
2CV is a new scaleable brand, and though this vintage is all from organic fruit, this might not be the case going forwards. This is an inexpensive wine (retail €7.50) named after the Citroen 2CV: the Portuguese factory making this car was near where the winery is. It’s fresh, bright and light with nice easy fruit, finishing fresh. 88/100
Julia Kemper Branco 2023 Dão, Portugal
60% Malvasia Fina and 40% Encruzado, in seasoned oak. Nice presence and brightness here with pure citrus fruit, a touch of pear and a lovely fruit quality. Juicy with nice energy. 91/100
Julia Kemper Encruzado 2024 Dão, Portugal
No oak here, and launched young. Precise, linear and bright with lovely citrus drive and good acidity. Very fine and pure, focused, with good energy. 92/100
Julia Kemper Reserva Branco 2021 Dão, Portugal
Encruzado that spends 14 months in used French oak. Stony with nice weight and a savoury edge. Mineral with some spicy oak character in the background. Showing some appealing savoury evolution. 92/100
Julia Kemper 2CV Rosé 2024 Dão, Portugal
Tinta Roriz and Jaen. Bright, lively and zippy with nice acidity. Pure with some stony mineral notes. Lively style. 87/100
Julia Kemper Elpenor Palhete 2024 Dão, Portugal
This is Alfrocheiro, Jaen and 10% Encruzado (white grapes). Pale cherry red in colour. Juicy, supple and leafy with nice brightness and good acidity. Sappy and delicious. 92/100
Julia Kemper Elpenor Lagareta 2023 Dão, Portugal
12% alcohol. 60% Touriga Nacional, 40% Alfrocheiro. These are foot trodden, macerated for a few hours and then pressed. Lovely floral, spicy nose with some pepper notes. Juicy and vivid with nice structure and lovely pretty fruit. Very fresh and fine, with a bit of grip on the finish. Brilliant. 94/100
Julia Kemper 2CV Tinto NV Dão, Portugal
This is a blend of wines from 2017/18/19. Juicy and spicy with nice mellow structure, showing cherries and plums with a bit of spice and some easiness on the finish. 89/100
Julia Kemper Tinto 2019 Dão, Portugal
Touriga Nacional, Jaen and Alfrocheiro, no oak. Nice depth to the smooth, sweet cherry and plum fruit with some spicy underpinnings, and a hint of tar on the finish. 91/100
Julia Kemper Reserva Tinto 2017 Dão, Portugal
50% Touriga Nacional (matured in cement tanks) plus Jaen and Alfrocheiro, matured in used oak. Has a small amount of older wine in the blend, too. Nice freshness but also some depth. Spicy and mellow with notes of tar and spice. Has a dry, slightly bitter finish or it would have merited a higher rating. 91/100
Julia Kemper Touriga Nacional 2013 Dão, Portugal
This comes from a vineyard at 700 m, and it’s matured in used oak. Spicy and earthy, with mellow fruit and a touch of elegance. Nice depth here. Smooth and refined, this has aged well. 92/100
