Exploring the Mâconnais (8) Domaine Thevenard
This is an interesting new project. In 2021 brothers Matthieu and Gaëtan Thevenard returned to the family property, which is in Uchizy, just north of Mâcon. They are the fifth generation on the family farm, but until their return the grapes had gone to the co-op (which is actually quite a good one). They took 12 of the domaine’s 24 hectares for their own use, and in time hope to make wine from the whole lot.
I met with Matthieu. Since he was10 years old he wanted to be a footballer, but he says his second choice for a career was to be a winegrower. He’s now 34. His wife of four years works as a winemaker at Domaine de la Vougeraie. Prior to coming back to the family property he spent 8 years working as winemaker at Maison Alex Gambal.
‘I want the best expression of terroir,’ he says. ‘We intervene the least: natural fermentation, we use the moon cycle, we don’t use a lot of sulfites, we don’t pump. We want the best purity of the wine. This is why we don’t use a lot of new oak.’ The winery is new, and 2021 was the first vintage. He recalls that this was a horrible start. ‘We lost half the grapes to frost, we were building a winery, and there was Covid.’ 2022 was much better, however. ‘2022 was totally different: a lot of sun,’ he says. ‘We started picking grapes in the middle of August, very early. ‘
Everything is matured in barrel, with a maximum of 15% new. They are excited to taste the terroirs that they have been working so long with.
They have also been expanding, and recently bought 2 hectares in Chaintre, which for now stays in the coop for another four years. This gives them 1 hectare in Pouilly-Fuissé, and 0.07 ha in the premier cru, enough for a barrel.
He describes their viticulture as 80% organic. But they don’t use herbicides, instead working the soil. They use systemic fungicides but only during flowering.
He’s hopeful for the future of the Mâconnais. ‘Now all the new generation who make wines in the Mâconnais want to exploit the terroirs and work well. Mâcon is part of Burgundy that is on the rise.
In 2021 they made 23 000 bottles, and then doubled production in 2023. In 23 they made 46 000 bottles.
THE WINES
Domaine Thevenard Mâcon-Villages 2022
All the vines come from Farges-Le-Mâcon, just north of Uchizy where the winery is based. Majority of clay and sand. 7 months in used barrels, then three in tank. Mineral, spicy and fine with a core of vivid citrus fruit. Lively and bright with a supple personality: some brightness and a light, elegant core. Real delicacy and finesse here with some spicy framing on the finish. 92/100 (€13)
Domaine Thevenard Mâcon-Chardonnay 2022
They only have two plots here, but they are very different. The first plot (two-thirds of the blend) is very old vines, minimum 80 years, south facing with lots of white clay and blue marne, low yielding. The second plot is 4 years old, with a lot of red clay, facing north. Barrel fermented, 15% new oak. This is powerful and intense with lovely weight: rich pear and citrus with fine spicy detail. Textured with real finesse and depth, covering a wide dynamic range. 94/100 (€15.50)
Domaine Thevenard Mâcon-Uchizy Marguerite 2022
The name of their grandmother. The vines were planted by her and their grandfather. The domaine originally comes from her family. He was from a winegrowing family in Lugny and didn’t inherit any vines of his own. This is thick clay over limestone bedrock. Lovely aromatics with finely spiced citrus and pear fruit. The palate is limey and bright but also has some subtle peach and pear richness. Stony and mineral with a lovely chalky edge and great definition. Very stylish with nice brisk focus on the finish. 94/100 (€15.50)
Domaine Thevenard Mâcon-Lugny Les Genièvres 2022
A large terroir of 250 hectares that’s quite diverse. Their vines are in the south, with rocky limestone soils over limestone bedrock. The grapes reach good maturity every vintage, and maturity can advance rapidly. This is pure, fresh and very supple with delicate but pure citrus fruit with some white peach in the background. It’s so pure and fine, with precision and nice saline twists, as well as some fine chalky texture. Remarkably refined; not a big wine. 94/100 (€17)
Domaine Thevenard Mâcon-Uchizy La Martine 2022
Just one plot, but a big one (1.8 ha). Very different to Marguerite: on a slope. A typical terroir of Bourgogne with a good balance of clay and limestone, with a southeast exposition, at 300 m with a lot of wind, so low disease pressure. 35 year old vines. Concentrated and intense with rich mealy, spicy citrus fruit showing good intensity. There’s a depth to the wine. Nicely concentrated, with richness, but never fat. Fine and quite delicate on the finish as well as showing richness. 93/100 (€19)
Domaine Thevenard Mâcon-Lugny Les Charmes 2022
Just one plot, again. The oldest plot they have: planted by their grandfather in 1945. Just 2000 bottles made each year. 25 hl/ha. Clay/limestone soils. Very refined with some bright mandarin and lemon notes as well as ripe pear and some white peach. Has nice texture and depth with a slight saltiness on the finish. Reined and finely spiced. 94/100 (€23)
Domaine Thevenard Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2022
They don’t have much red: just 0.6 ha, from two plots in Uchizy and Lugny, picked on the same day and destemmed. Lots of pump overs in vinification. But Matthieu would like more, and he misses working with reds. Supple, fresh and really elegant with nice cherry and plum fruit, with real finesse and texture. There’s some good structure here but also depth with purity and presence. Lovely wine. 93/100 (€17)
Domaine Thevenard Crémant de Bourgogne NV
Just one plot from Farges-Le Mâcon. Base vintage 2021 aged 8 months in barrel. The wine is then made elsewhere, with 5.8 g/l dosage. This is bright and focused with crisp citrus fruit, but also a bit of complexity. Nice pithy structure on the finish. This is all about the pure fruit, with good balancing acidity. Sophisticated and concentrated. 91/100 (€14)
UK agent is Flint Wines
