Highlights: Jean Foillard Morgon Côte du Py 2017

Jean Foillard Morgon Côte du Py 2017 Beaujolais, France
13.5% alcohol. This is from the special terroir of Côte du Py in Morgon. It’s not granitic, and it’s not volcanic (as some claim). Instead, the soils are blue stones, known as roche pourrie (rotten rock) from decomposed schist. They are the oldest soils in the region (400 myo), and are rich in manganese and iron oxide. The wines that result are distinctive and structural, and generally age well. This is deeply coloured with a slight lift to the green-tinged black fruits nose. It’s quite floral, with a touch of sweetness (the volatile acidity is in check, but adds lift and a hint of sweetness). The palate has lovely focus and definition, with a nice acid line and taut tannic structure, reining in the sleek, sweet fruit with real density and focus. This should age really nicely: there’s an approachability to it, but just when you think it is too friendly, it gets all stern on you. It’s a profound and somewhat perplexing wine: is it about drinkability, or is it a keeper? There’s certainly some tannin here, but it’s not at all harsh. I love it: it has so many dimensions. 94/100

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