Rolly Gassmann: singular wines from Alsace

Website: Domaine Rolly Gassmann

Rolly Gassmann is one of the most singular producers in Alsace. They are based in Rorschwihr, near Ribeauvillé, and have 40 hectares of vineyards in this village (out of 250 ha) and a further 10 hectares in Bergheim. The domaine is run by Marie-Therese and Louis Gassmann, and their son Pierre Gassmann.

Rorschwihr doesn’t have any Grand Cru vineyards: they wanted 12 when the Grand Cru system was devised, or none at all: they ended up with none.

Production is around a third of a million bottles a year, and notably they hold onto four year’s worth of stock: these are ageable wines and they like to sell them with a bit of bottle age to their customers (mainly top restaurants and private customers – just 20% is exported).

These are rich wines, full of concentration and often with some sugar, but they are also ageable.

Domaine Rolly Gassmann Sylvaner Réserve Millésime 2019 Alsace, France
12% alcohol. Honeyed and intense with a mineral edge. Very spicy and rich with a lovely mineral finish, and notes of marmalade, spices and honey. 94/100

Domaine Rolly Gassmann Branduhurst de Bergheim Pinot Gris 2016 Alsace, France
Off-dry with lovely sweet pear, spice and apple notes. Softly textured, this is ripe, luscious, smooth and intense. 93/100

Domaine Rolly Gassmann Kappelweg de Rorschwihr Riesling 2014 Alsace, France
13% alcohol. There’s a limey edge to the nose, and this is fresh, supple and citrussy. Quite powerful with nice depth, this is concentrated and mineral, and is just off-dry. 94/100

Domaine Rolly Gassmann Riesling de Rorschwihr Cuvée Yves Vendanges Tardives 2010 Alsace, France
12% alcohol. Lime, honey and marmalade on the nose. This is concentrated with high acidity. Powerful and lively, and really intense, with the significant sweetness countered well by the acidity. 95/100

UK agent: Liberty Wines

Older notes from June 2014

Rolly Gassmann Reserve Millesime Riesling 2012 Alsace, France
Lively, fruity and a bit mineral with lovely precision. Citrus, pear and herbs with purity and generosity. Very engaging. 90/100 (06/14)

Rolly Gassmann Riesling Silberg de Rorschwihr 2010 Alsace, France
Intense and precise with some sweetness and lovely limey character. Spicy and mineral with keen acidity. Brilliant stuff. 93/100 (06/14)

Rolly Gassmann Riesling Kappelweg de Rorschwihr 2010 Alsace, France
Floral white peach fruit with some citrus. Off dry with nice weight and texture. Honey and melon with nice generosity. 94/100 (06/14)

Rolly Gassmann Riesling Pflaenzerreben de Rorschwihr Muschelkalk 2010 Alsace, France
Keen and lively with nice pear and citrus fruit. So pure with linear, fine citrus fruit, as well as pear and melon. Textured. 92/100 (06/14)

Rolly Gassmann Riesling Planzenerreben de Rorschwihr Muschelkalk 2000 Alsace, France
Some wax and herbs, and citrus and melon. Lovely purity here with nice texture and a hint of sweetness. Evolving nicely. 93/100 (06/14)

Rolly Gassmann Riesing Kappelweg de Rorschwihr Vendanges Tardives 2000 Alsace, France
Rich, sweet and mineral. Textured with pear and peach fruit. Some grape, with a touch of toast. Pure and complex. 94/100 (06/14)

Rolly Gassmann Riesling Sélection Grains Nobiles 2010 Alsace, France
Lively and very bright with fresh, spicy peach fruit. Lovely pear and spice notes. Rich and intense with amazing acidity. 95/100 (06/14)

Rolly Gassmann Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Altenberg de Bergheim 2011 Alsace, France
Beautifully aromatic: lychee, pear, floral notes. Very rich and intense on the palate with a fat texture. Rich, broad and complex. 95/100 (06/14)