Superb wines at Enomania, Copenhagen


Enomania is a remarkable Italian restaurant in Copenhagen with a strong interest in wine, as implied in the name. I dined here with Thomas Ilkjær of the Wine Academy after doing some lectures, and we ate and drank very well. Almost all the wines were served to us blind by the boss, Damiano Alberti, which made it a fun exercise.

Thomas Ilkjær

The food was excellent, if slightly overshadowed by some of the wines. If you are visiting Copenhagen get your reservation here well in advance. It’s worth it, but understandably books out early. This is the place to come for fancy stuff from Piemonte and Burgundy, at very good prices.

Flight one was Chardonnay. Here are my notes and verdicts from blind tasting.

Kistler Les Noisieres Chardonnay 2019 Sonoma Coast, California
Toast, mel and spice on the nose with some pear, citrus and pineapple, as well as some mealy hints and nice depth. Very rich and expansive with power and precision, 95/100

Mayacamas Chardonnay 2019 Mt Veeder, Napa, California
Fine, spicy and mealy on the nose with brightness and texture. Mineral and fine with some salinity and nice depth. This has a lovely texture with a slightly salty finish. Very fine and expressive, and not heavy. 95/100

Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 2020 Bourgogne, France
Lovely chiselled matchstick and citrus nose. Very lively and fine with spicy fruit. The fruit is really fresh. Linear, but not overly complex. Bright, pure and precise. 94/100

Next a three-wine flight including a treat from Portugal, a Burgundy, and an Italian Pinot Noir (I didn’t spot it).

Niepoort Charme 2014 Douro, Portugal
Sleek and ripe with lovely texture, showing aromatic black cherry and blackberry fruit. Very fine with a ripe core, nice tannins and a sense of harmony on the palate. There’s a hint of liqourice here, too. Very fine. 95/100

Robert Groffier Gevrey-Chambertin Les Seuvrées 2014 Bourgogne, France
Hugely aromatic with some lift (a hint of volatility). Supple and fine with hints of tar and some spice. Lively with some juicy cherry and berry fruit, as well as good acidity, and hints of tar. Supple. 93/100

Podere della Civettaja Pinot Nero 2019 Toscana, Italy
13.5% alcohol. Fine, floral and polished with cherry and berry fruit as well as some elegant green notes. Fruity and fresh with well-integrated tannins and some green hints. Plush with some elegance, and quite pure. Grenache or Nerello? 93/100

This one was off the list, and then followed by another blind.

Brovia Barolo Villero 2016 Piemonte, Italy
14.5% alcohol. Perfumed, fine and elegant with lovely red cherry and cranberry fruit as well as some green hints. Quite floral, perfumed and fine. The palate has fresh raspberry and cherry fruit with a hint of green, a touch of olive and fine grained tannins. Plenty of structure, but cloaked in lovely fruit. Pale, elegant, fine and detailed with potential for long development. 96/100

Giulia Negri Barolo Marassio 2016 Piemonte, Italy
Some age, with the nose showing mineral, spicy, iodine notes as well as cherry and raspberry fruit. Stony and tart with good tannic structure and herby hints under the raspberry fruit. Some elegance, but also some grunt. Finishes mineral. 95/100

Finally, a Danish wine

Nuord En Vólótire Fruhburgunder 2020 Denmark
Supple sappy strawberry, raspberry and cherry fruit with a silky, sappy edge to the fruit. Juicy and fine with hints of pepper as well as ripe strawberry fruit and fine cherries. 92/100