Canada’s Okanagan and Similkameen Valleys (8) Burrowing Owl
Website: https://www.burrowingowlwine.ca/
Burrowing Owl is another important Okanagan winery. They are medium-sized (45 000 cases), but they are an important tourist destination, and since 2004 they’ve raised CA$2 million in support of conservation for the Burrowing Owl that the winery is named after, by donating $5 from each tasting.
It’s owned by the Wyse family. Midge and Jim Wise planted the vineyard here in 1993 when they were in their mid-50s, and their goal was to be growers. They were one of the first to plant red vinifera varieties in the Okanagan. But they ended up building a winery and making their first wine in 1997.
It’s a beautiful spot, with the Sunrock Mountain looming over the vineyards. Initially they had 150 acres of grapes and no plans to build a winery. With the help of investors, the vineyard grew to 300 acres, which at the time was the largest contiguous vineyard in Canada.
While the Wyses wanted to start a winery, the investors didn’t, so they took 130 acres and the investors took 170, and they parted ways. Since then, they’ve expanded the vineyards with 50 acres in Osoyoos, 10 acres in the Similkameen and then they bought Wild Goose in 2001. This winey, which was established in 1984, had 10 acres of vines in the OK Falls area.
We visited and tasted with Steve Neumann, brand ambassador. He says that during the freeze they lost 20% of vines, so they are currently doing some replanting. ‘The overall complacency in the valley has shifted,’ says Steve. ‘People will go into the winters better prepared.’
Burrowing Owl Chardonnay 2022 Okanagan, Canada
13.5% alcohol. 80% barrel, 20% steel, 31% malolactic. This is really supple with ripe pear and peach fruit, showing nice depth and texture, and some grapey richness. There’s a fine spicy note from the oak, as well as hints of vanilla and coconut, with lovely smoothness on the palate. 91/100 ($35)
Burrowing Owl Pinot Noir 2023 Okanagan, Canada
The vines that made this have now gone! The last of Black Sage Bench Pinot, which is a hot site for this variety. Sweet strawberry with a bit of raspberry, showing nice texture and a bit of warmth. Supple, easy and delicious with a touch of iodine in the mix. This is really nice despite the site. 91/100 ($45)
Burrowing Owl Athene 2021 Okanagan, Canada
14% alcohol. This is the genus of Burrowing Owl. Co-fermented blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (45%) and Syrah (55%). Lovely blackcurrant and pepper here with some Burrowing Owl cherry and spice. This is a lovely wine with ripeness but also balance, and some spicy definition. Grippy around the edges with a touch of raspberry and strawberry too. Complex. 94/100 ($41)
Burrowing Owl Syrah 2011 Okanagan, Canada
This is ageing beautifully, with some black pepper and a bit of sage, as well as lush sweet cherry fruit and some blackberry. There’s a hint of earth and some olive savouriness, with a touch of mint and then some stewed strawberry. Such a multidimensional wine that’s very ripe, but has aged really nicely, and is drinking really well now. 94/100
Burrowing Owl Syrah 2019 Okanagan, Canada
Has 3% Viognier co-fermented with the Syrah. This is lively, pure and focused with some cured meat and pepper, as well as focused black cherry and blackberry fruit. Nice sweet, lush fruit, but also with lovely vibrancy and some peppery notes. Juicy and vivid. Has some nice tannins and good acidity. 94/100
Burrowing Owl Syrah 2022 Okanagan, Canada
100% Syrah. This is supple and bright with juicy cherry and raspberry fruit. This is a bit peppery, but has a core of ripe fruit, finishing with some grip. Still very youthful and has some nice energy. Has a grippy finish. Expressive and nicely proportioned. 93/100 ($36)
