Australian Chardonnay: a deep dive into this exciting category
We are so familiar with Chardonnay as an important part of Australia’s wine offering that it’s surprising to learn that the first varietally labelled Chardonnay of the modern era was only released in 1971! This was the Tyrrell’s Vat 47 Chardonnay 1971. Chardonnay has been here a lot longer though, from the 1832 importation by James Busby. It was initially planted in the Hunter Valley and also in vineyards closer to Sydney. From there, cuttings were sent to other areas, most notably Mudgee, which was an important region in the history of Australian Chardonnay. The oldest surviving Chardonnay is the Tyrrell’s HVD vineyard, planted in 1908: it’s likely that this is the oldest productive Chardonnay vineyard in the world.
Clones are an important part of the Australian wine story, especially for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Famous Chardonnay clones include the Penfolds P58 clone and Gingin from Western Australia, both arriving in the late 1950s. Then, a bunch more arrived from California in the late 1960s, including Mendoza, which is not the same as Gingin (although the two can look quite similar). From the 1980s onwards, newer Dijon clones have been legally imported from France. There may have been some illegal imports, too.
This was a really important tasting: looking at current releases of some of Australia’s top Chardonnays, paired with an older vintage to see how the wine develops with time.
I liked most of the wines, and some quite a lot. One potential discussion point is the way that the wines develop so slowly under the tin/saran-lined screwcaps that are almost exclusively used for Australian Chardonnay. The wines aren’t locked in time, but they develop slowly. In the modern world, do we want this?
Natural cork still has some taint problems, but at a much lower frequency than the bad old days. There is still some variation in oxygen transmission rate, but – again – not as much as in the bad old days. And there are taint-free alternatives that are based on natural cork, such as Diam. Can I ask a heretical question? Might some of these wines taste even better under cork, which is not a totally inert closure?
This aside, Chardonnay is a very strong category for Australia.
THE WINES
Cullen Kevin John Chardonnay, Margaret River
2023
13.8% alcohol. Wente and Gingin clones. Vines planted 1976 and 1988 on old granite and sandy loam soils. Dry farmed, biodynamics. 12% of the juice has two day’s skin contact in amphora. 80% new oak, 10% concrete. Complex, detailed nose, with some spicy undercurrents to the bright citrus and pineapple fruit. The palate is complex, spicy and layered with some richness, good intensity and well integrated oak. Good concentration here. 96/100 (£130)
2018
13.5% alcohol. 70% Puncheons, 30% in barriques. 50% new. Lively and intense with some toast, honey and spice notes. Peach and lime fruit ion the palate, with good intensity. This is evolving slowly but beautifully. 96/100
Howard Park Chardonnay, Margaret River
2024
12.5% alcohol. Gingin, 95, 96 clones. Wild ferment in barrels of varying sizes, up to 600 litres, 20% new. Lively and intense with creamy detail and keen citrus fruit. Great intensity here with nice vivid acidity. Good weight. 95/100 ($AUD69)
2018
13% alcohol. Notes of dairy, toast and cream on the nose, leading to a palate with nice texture. Honeyed and long, with good density. Ageing beautifully. 94/100
Howard Park Allingham Chardonnay, Margaret River
2024
12.5% alcohol. 20 year old vines (Gingin clone) on shallow gravel and sandy clay over ironstone. Demimuids and barriques, 25% new. Lively, chiselled and powerful with citrus fruit to the fore. Nice saline twist. Pure and long and refined. Lovely fruit focus here. 95/100 (AUD$106)
2018
13% alcohol. Nice weight of pear and citrus fruit with some subtle toastiness. Lively and saline with good intensity and a tapering finish. 94/100
Cherubino Chardonnay, Margaret River
2023
13.5% alcohol. 20 year old clone 95 and 96, 60% new oak, only 10% malolactic. Lively and bright with pear and pineapple fruit as well as some citrus drive. Well integrated wood with a mineral twist. 93/100 (£43)
2020
13.8% alcohol. This has some toast, honey and vinyl character, with a touch of smokiness on the palate. Lively with a tapering finish. Quite distinctive. 93/100
Cherubino Ovale Dijon Chardonnay, Margaret River
2023
12.1% alcohol. Clones 95, 96, 60% new oak, 10% malolactic. Nice pear, peach and toast here with a mellow quality on the mid-palate. Nice complexity with a fine, mineral core. 94/100 (£35)
2020
13.1% alcohol. Pear, peach and toast on the nose with nice density, as well as some mealy character. Broad and finely spiced, showing good depth. 93/100
Cherubino Ovale Gingin Chardonnay, Margaret River
2023
13.5% alcohol. Nice presence here with fine spices, some mealy notes and a touch of lemon, with peachy richness but also some saline character. 95/100 (£35)
2020
13.6% alcohol. Fresh, mealy and spicy showing nice crystalline citrus fruit with good purity. Has good concentration and intensity. Mineral and fine. 96/100 (£35)
Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay, Margaret River
2020
13.5% alcohol. From Gingin clone planted in 1975 and 1977. 100% new oak. Very fine, pure, linear and focused. Bright citrus fruit with some pear. Mineral with amazing precision and purity. This is just so fine. 96/100 (£87)
2012
14% alcohol. Nice mineral core with subtle toast. Finely spiced with a touch of salinity. Pure, developing quite slowly. Fine and polished with some superb nutty depth. 96/100
McHenry Hohnen Vintners Calgardup Brook Vineyard Chardonnay, Margaret River
2022
12.8% alcohol. Organically farmed Gingin clone, wild ferment, 30% new oak. Lively and dense with a sour cherry twist and a hint of dairy. Very mealy and textural with a nice acid line. Distinctive and linear. 94/100 (£45)
2019
13.3% alcohol. Notes of honey, dried herbs and citrus, as well as pear and white peach, and even a hint of dairy. Very linear, and developing in an interesting way. 93/100
Moss Wood Chardonnay, Margaret River
2023
14% alcohol. Gingin and Dijon clones, first planted 1976. 49% new oak. Complex with pineapple and pear fruit as well as some subtle spicy detail. Nice depth here. It’s mealy and a bit saline with some creaminess. So distinctive. 95/100 (£45)
2017
13.5% alcohol. 48% new oak. Creamy edge to the rich, bold, sweet pear fruit with some apple, as well as some toasty detail. Lovely depth to this wine. 95/100
Passel Estate Chardonnay, Margaret River
2018
12.6% alcohol. Gingin clone planted in gravelly loams over granite and gneiss. 35% new oak, one third malolactic. Complex, layered and finely spiced with bold citrus fruit and a nice saline twist, as well as a hint of pineapple. Saline finish. 94/100 (£31)
2020
Bright and linear with vivid pineapple and pear fruit, as well as a touch of lime. Nice intensity here with a salty twist to the long finish. 94/100
Pierro Chardonnay, Margaret River
2023
14% alcohol. Older (30-45 years) vines planted on gravelly loam with a high proportion of granite, and some clay in the subsoil. 44% new oak, 77% malolactic. Lively pineapple fruit with some richer peachy notes, and also some spice. Lively and rich. Complex with nice impact. 93/100 (£53)
2012
13.5% alcohol. 50% new oak. Complex pear and pineapple fruit with a touch of peach. Nice spicy notes and well integrated oak, becoming a bit toasty with age. 93/100
Robert Oatley ‘The Pennant’ Chardonnay, Margaret River
2020
12.5% alcohol. Gingin clone. Old vines, from Karridale and Wilyabrup. Wild ferment in 100% new tight-grain 500 litre oak. Concentrated and lively with some pear and peach as well as lively citrus fruit, with a hint of dairy. Great concentration here. Very stylish. 94/100 (£40)
Vasse Felix Chardonnay, Margaret River
2022
13% alcohol. Wallcliffe, Carbanup, Karridale, Wilyabrup. 84% Gingin, 16% Bernard clones (95, 96, 76). 44% new oak. Bright and lively with crystalline citrus, some peachy depth and also nice acidity. Compact and bright with nice depth. Stylish. 94/100 (£32)
2020
13% alcohol. Wilyabrub, Walcliffe, a bit of Karridale. 82% Gingin, 18% Bernard. Nice acidity here. Some pithiness with powerful citrus and pineapple fruit as well as some subtle toast and a bit of nuttiness. Linear and focused. 94/100
Vasse Felix Heytesbury Chardonnay, Margaret River
2022
13% alcohol. Gingin from Wilyabrup (sandy loam with clay, and gravel loam over clay) and Walcliffe (gravel and sandy loam with clay over clay). 56% new oak. This is compact, spice-laden and pure with bold citrus fruit and lots of concentration. It has a lovely acid line, and there’s real impact here. 95/100 (£60)
2019
13% alcohol. 61% new oak. This shows a saline twist to the fresh, fine, focused fruit. Good acidity with a mineral twist. Taut and complex, this will probably last forever. 96/100
Voyager Estate MJW Chardonnay, Margaret River
2021
13% alcohol. 20 year old Gingin, Dijon 95 and Dijon 76 clone, farmed organically. 32% new oak. Gravelly granitic soils over a stony clay base. Saline, lively and vivid with nice bright citrus. So fresh and pure. Mineral and taut with great acidity. 95/100 (£57)
2016
13.5% alcohol. 25% new oak. Lovely focus, and developing nicely. Fine toast and nut notes, as well as hints of honey. Bold citrus drive, and quite mineral with pure white peach fruit. 95/100
Penfolds Yattarna Bin 144 Chardonnay, Australia
2022
12.5% alcohol. This is a multiregional blend from Tumbarumba, Tasmania and Adelaide Hills. I10V5 and Bernard 96 clone. Cultured yeast, 44% new oak, 90% malolactic. Taut, focused and complex with lively crystalline citrus fruit and some pineapple. Powerful, linear and compact. 95/100 (£135)
2018
Lively and vivid. Taut with bright, intense citrus fruit and a twist of pineapple, as well as some fine spices. Linear, bright and finishes saline. Superb. 97/100
Penfolds Reserve Bin A Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills
2023
12.5% alcohol. A portion is wild fermented, 60% new oak. Bernard 95 and 96 clones. Saline, taut and focused with high acidity and some lemon and lime freshness balanced by pineapple richness. Bold and linear with real presence. 96/100 (£70)
2019
13% alcohol. Cultured yeast, 80% new oak. This is lively, complex and intense with an amazing acid line. Such intensity, but the flavours are there too, with an amazing spicy finish. 97/100
Ashton Hills Piccadilly Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills
2024
13% alcohol. 15-20% new oak, partial malolactic fermentation. Bright and vivid with nice acidity. Lemony, with some pear. Very refined and fruit driven. Fine. 94/100 (£40)
2018
13.5% alcohol. 15-20% new oak. Bright and zippy with nice pear and white peach fruit with a mineral undercurrent to the broad fruit. Still very youthful and quite stylish. 94/100
Ashton Hills Reserve Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills
2024
13% alcohol. 30% new oak. Complex, layered and mineral with nice refinement. Classy with well integrated oak and a nice salty twist to the palate. Very refined with good precision. 95/100 (£45)
2021
12% alcohol. 30% new oak. Super refined and energetic with fine toast, lime and grapefruit characters, as well as a touch of pineapple. Still so youthful with amazing precision and a lovely saline finish. 96/100
Shaw & Smith M3 Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills
2023
12.5% alcohol. One-third new oak. Pear, meal and nice peachiness add richer notes to the citrus freshness. Lively with nice energy. Shows a bit of sour cherry on the finish. Stylish. 94/100 (£36)
2017
13% alcohol. One-third new oak. Subtle dairy notes and some creamy richness here, alongside fine toast and spice notes with a good acid line. Linear and vivid with real refinement. 94/100
Tapanappa Tiers Vineyard Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills
2023
12.9% alcohol. One-third new oak. This has nice concentration of pear and pineapple fruit with some good citrus intensity and some mineral character. Good acidity, and a saline twist on the finish. It’s chiselled, but also mealy, bold and rich. 96/100 (£46)
2018
13.5% alcohol. One-third new oak. Bold but balanced with powerful pear and white peach fruit as well as some citrus drive. This has a wide dynamic range and is ageing really well. 96/100
Wakefield St Andrews Chardonnay, Clare Valley
2023
13% alcohol. Berrnard 95, SAVI1 and SAVI2 clones. 50% new oak, no malolactic. So expressive with nice broad pear, pineapple and white peach fruit. Lovely acidity. This shows some breadth to it. 94/100 (£30)
2012
13.5% alcohol. 50% new oak. No malolactic. Bold with nice bright citrus fruit acting as a foil to the richer toast, pineapple and peach notes. Broad, expansive and full, with nice depth. 95/100
Giant Steps Sexton Vineyard Chardonnay, Yarra Valley
2024
13.5% alcohol. No settling, fermented in puncheons. 15% new oak. Bright, lively and complex with great energy to the taut fruit. Powerful lime and lemon as well as some grapefruit with nice spicy detail. So fine, primary and chiselled. 96/100 (£60)
2017
13.5% alcohol. No settling, wild yeasts, puncheons, 20% new oak. There’s a hint of lime and pineapple on the nose with mineral intensity, showing a hint of reduction. Powerful flavours of citrus and lime. So intense. 95/100
Giant Steps Bastard Hill Vineyard Chardonnay, Yarra Valley
2024
13.3% alcohol. Clone I10V1, from the steeply sloped 13 hectare Bastard Hill vineyard, at 300-400 m. Wild ferment in 500 litre puncheons, 20% new oak, 25% malolactic. Vivid, intense and limey with nice citrus drive. Taut and mineral. Expressive and super compact with amazing precision and an eternal finish. 97/100 (£59)
Levantine Hill Estate Chardonnay, Yarra Valley
2022
13% alcohol. Clones I10V5, Mendoza, P58, Bernard 95, Bernard 96. From the 1990s planted Maroondah Highway vineyard and the 1984 planted Fernhill Vineyard (planted for Coldstream Hills and purchased by Levantine Hill in 2016). Textured with nice depth of pear and peach fruit with some creamy character. Rich, deep and harmonious. 93/100
2017
13.5% alcohol. 22% new oak. Textured with nice depth. Broad pear and white peach fruit with a fine spiciness on the finish. Easy and fine. 94/100
Mount Mary Chardonnay, Yarra Valley
2017
13.6% alcohol. Clones I10V1, Mendoza, P58, Bernard 76, Bernard 277. Dry grown, sandy clay loam soils, no herbicides. Hard pressing, no malolactic, 30% new oak. Powerful and linear with good acidity and purity. Linear and finely spiced. Lemon and pear fruit. Such harmony. 96/100 (£55)
2012
13.4% alcohol. Some nice development here. Toast, pear, peach and spice with nice depth, as well as a hint of pineapple and banana, as well as refined toasty notes on the finish. Really fine. 96/100
Yarra Yering Chardonnay, Yarra Valley
2021
12.9% alcohol. Clones P58, 95. No malolactic. Fine and linear but also has some depth, with pear, peach and a touch of lemon. Refined and textural, but still focused. 94/100 (£65)
2015
13.1% alcohol. Clone P58. Some evolution here: broad with nice depth, and a slight saltiness. Lovely refined pear and peach fruit with nice depth. 95/100
Yering Station Reserve Chardonnay, Yarra Valley
2022
13.2% alcohol. Mendoza clone. High solids ferment in 500 litre barrels, 14% new, wild ferment. Lively, taut and focused with citrus and pineapple fruit. Nice intensity and concentration with a slight salinity. 94/100 (£67)
2017
12.5% alcohol. Mendoza and I10V5 clones. 500 litre barrels, 32% new. Juicy and focused with nice concentration. This is linear and bright, and it’s still primary with appealing crystalline citrus fruit and a slight creamy hint. 95/100
Moorooduc Estate McIntyre Chardonnay, Mornington Peninsula
2022
13% alcohol. Clones I10V3, I10V5, 95 and Mendoza. Juice with full soilds goes to tank, soilds are stirred through, then goes to barrels, wild ferment, 20% new oak. Subtle toast and spice with nice pear fruit. Has lovely texture on the palate: rich and bold but harmonious. Lovely complexity and depth here. 94/100 (£38)
2017
12.5% alcohol. I10V3 and I10V5 clones. Saline, salty and reductive sea shore nose. The palate is pure, linear and refined with a touch of citrus on the finish. Distinctive with nice intensity. 94/100
Ocean Eight Verve Chardonnay, Mornington Peninsula
2023
12.5% alcohol. Clones P58, 110, 96. Wild yeast ferment then maturation on full lees in older oak. Concentrated, linear, focused and very pure, showing great acidity. Linear and saline with freshness and real directness and intensity. 95/100 (£40)
2018
12.5% alcohol. Fine, spicy edge to the linear fruit, showing high acidity and subtle toastiness. Nice precision and focus here with a stylish personality. Deep and complex. 95/100
Port Philip Estate ‘Red Hill’ Chardonnay, Mornington Peninsula
2023
13.5% alcohol. Clones I10V1, P58, 548 and 95. Hand-picked and whole-bunch pressed directly to barrel. 20% new oak, 350 and 500 litres. Bright, linear and with nice acidity, as well as focused pear and peach fruit, as well as some crystalline citrus notes. 95/100 (£29)
2018
13% alcohol. Supple and linear with a nice acid line, with crystalline citrus fruit and some salty detail. Chiselled with nice concentration. Fine. 95/100
Ten Miniutes x Tractor Wallis Chardonnay, Mornington Peninsula
2022
13% alcohol. P58 clone. 25% new oak. Linear and focused with great acid and some mineral characters. Salty, fine and intense with such precision, and some hints of pineapple. Great acid line. 96/100 (£72)
Yabby Lake Single Vineyard Chardonnay, Mornington Peninsula
2023
13% alcohol. 15% new oak. Chiselled and focused with a hint of apple and nice lemony detail. Very pure and refined with nice intensity. Bright, compact and linear. 95/100 (£35)
2018
12.9% alcohol. 15% new oak. Bright and focused with nice citrus fruit as well as a touch of pineapple. Has great precision and focus with a bit of saltiness on the finish. Refined. 96/100
Lethbridge Wines Allegra Chardonnay, Geelong
2016
14.5% alcohol. Preclonal vines planted in 1968/9 with some more added in 1981. 100% new French oak puncheons, no clarification. Nice toasty depth to the rich pear and peach fruit with a fine spicy framing. Broad and very stylish with a fine spicy finish. This is really good. 95/100 (£65)
2011
13.5% alcohol. Nice complexity here. Powerful pear, nut, peach and spice with a saline twist to the finish. Very stylish and quite broad. 96/100
Castagna Chardonnay, Beechworth
2021
13.1% alcohol. 30% new oak. Bold, rich, complex and layered with ripe melon, pear and peach fruit, showing nice depth. There’s a hint of coconut here. Linear and expressive; stylish and saline. 94/100
Giaconda Estate Chardonnay, Beechworth
2022
14% alcohol. Mainly P58 clone with some Mendoza. 30% new oak. Concentrated and powerful with some pronounced struck flint/matchstick reduction as well as bold pear and peach fruit, with lovely depth and impact. A remarkable wine. 97/100 (£115)
2017
Toast, pear and peach with some nice depth. Linear but has some lovely spicy detail and real depth of flavour, with a sense of refinement. 95/100
Dalrymple Pipers River Cave Block Chardonnay, Tasmania
2021
13% alcohol. Clone I10V1. New and used French oak plus some ceramic egg. Bright, linear and fresh with amazing precision, showing appealing peach and pear fruit, with nice intensity. This has a wide dynamic range and a lemony finish. 94/100 (£38)
2015
12.5% alcohol. French oak (15% new). Bright and vivid showing some depth. Lovely pear and white peach fruit, with fine spicy detail. Very refined. 94/100
Stargazer Chardonnay, Tasmania
2023
13% alcohol. Clones 96, 76 and 548. 80% in French oak puncheons, of which 20% are new. 20% concrete egg. Bright, pithy and limey with nice acidity. Plush pear and apple fruit with a nice saline twist on the finish. 93/100 (£59)
2018
13% alcohol. French oak puncheons, 30% new. Nice depth here: pear, white peach and some nice spiciness, as well as a salty twist. Combines depth with focus, and has a lovely finish. 95/100
Tolpuddle Vineyard Coal River Valley Chardonnay, Tasmania
2023
13.5% alcohol. One third new oak. Precision and focus, but also lovely depth of flavour. Slightly salty, with a refined fruit quality: white peach, crystalline citrus and a nice mineral finish. 95/100 (£72)
2018
13.5% alcohol. Linear, focused and precise with a lovely saline twist. Fine mineral notes. So primary still, with compact citrus and white peach fruit. 95/100
Tyrrell’s HVD Old Vines Chardonnay, Hunter Valley
2023
13% alcohol. 117 year old dry grown vines, P58 clone: the oldest producing Chardonnay vineyard in the world. No malolactic. Taut, fine, spicy and showing lovely crystalline citrus fruit with a touch of pear. Stylish with nice depth. 95/100
2015
12.5% alcohol. French oak puncheons, 15% new, no malolactic. Mineral and fine. Distinctive bold citrus fruit with some depth and a hint of cabbage. Layered flavours of pear and peach, too. 94/100
Tyrrell’s Winemaker’s Selection Vat 47 Chardonnay, Hunter Valley
2022
13.5% alcohol. P58 clone, dry grown. 15% new oak, no malolactic. Compact but still rich with pear, peach and spice, showing nice depth. Bold but with great energy. 95/100
2019
13% alcohol. No malo. Nice depth here. Fine, spicy, bold pear and peach fruit with some depth. Stylish. 94/100
