Tasting the impressive wines of Viviana Morales of Sauzal Winery in Maule, Chile
Viviana Morales is the talented winegrower behind the wines of Sauzal Winery, with its brand Viñedo Los 5. As with Renán Cancino (who I reported on here) she is based in Sauzal, and she poured her wines for me when we visited Renán’s winery. She has her own winery, and her father Nibaldo Morales has a vineyard where she sources some of her grapes.
Viviana focuses on small plots of old dry-grown vines, and as the three different País wines I tried showed, this is a grape that expresses its place well. The single-plot approach produces wines that are quite different, even from the same variety.
Soils here are mostly granitic, vineyard work is organic, and the winemaking takes a very natural approach: the only addition is 10 ppm sulfites before bottling, which is a very low level.
I was really taken by these wines, especially the País bottlings.
La Orilla País Viticultor José Ramón Luna 2022 Maule, Chile
High altitude, granite and gneiss soils, hand destemmed, wild yeast, only addition is 15 ppm SO2 before bottling. This is so elegant with fine, pure red cherry and redcurrant fruit. Such finesse with a hint of almond. Lovely purity here. Fine, light and delicate. 95/100
La Quebrada País Viticultor Nivaldo Mesa 2021 Maule, Chile
There’s some density here with herby detail and notes of spice with some peppery hints. Lovely red cherries and cranberries. Floral with some orange peel notes, and nice tannic structure under the sleek fruit. 94/100
Viñedo Los 5 Viticultor Mario Pereira 2021 Maule, Chile
Nice grainy structure. Has tannins and spice with floral, sweet cherries and strawberries. Finishes fresh with some tannins. Lovely purity and detail here. 95/100
Viñedo Los 5 Garnacha Viticultor Niraldo Morales 2021 Maule, Chile
This is very direct with high acidity and grippy tannins. Savoury and spicy on the palate with bold raspberry fruit and some tight structure. Grippy and dense, finishing firm. Quite angular but has potential. 92/100
Viñedo Los 5 Cariñena Viticultor Jaqueline Garrido 2021 Maule, Chile
This is vivid with real intensity, showing tart raspberry fruit with good acidity. Such focus and intensity here with brightness on the finish. 93/100
