Spotlight on Saint-Joseph: tasting 39 different wines from this northern Rhône cru
It was back in 1956 that Saint-Joseph became an appellation, and the original classification was expanded in 1969 from the initial six communes to the size that it is today.
It’s a long, thin string of vineyards situated on the right bank of the Rhône, stretching some 60 km from, Chavanay in the north to across the river from Valence in the south, including 26 villages.
The latest stats (2025) show that there are 1504 hectares of vines, of which 16% are now farmed organically and biodynamically.
Granite is the main story here: the hillside vineyards are the result of the Rhône river hitting the edge of the Massif Central, a huge slab of granite derived from ancient volcanic activity that sits across a lot of the middle of France. When the Rhône hits this, it has nowhere to go, so heads down south at a rapid rate.
The vineyards tend to be sloped, and there’s a succession of them along the 60 km of the appellation.
Reds are Syrah, and whites are made from either Marsanne or Roussanne, or blends of the two.
These are my notes on 39 wines tried at an event in London celebrating the 70th birthday of the appellation. The standard was consistently high, especially with the reds, although I’d like to see maybe a bit less oak used, and also some more whole bunch for freshness. Alternative elevage – large casks, concrete and clay – works very well for Syrah and helps keep the wines more focused, something that is likely to be needed with climate change.
Red wines
Maison Bruyère & David Les Parcelles 2022 Saint-Joseph, Northern Rhône, France
From Charnas and Chavanay, 100% destemmed, aged in 500 litre barrels, 20% new. Juicy, fresh and supple with some roast meat character and assertive cherry and berry fruits. Quite a classic style. 92/100
Cave de Tain Parcellaires Esprit de Granit 2022 Saint-Joseph, Northern Rhône, France
Plot selection of old vines, aged in 400 litre barrels, 33% new. There’s some oak in the mix here, with ripe, sweet black fruits, some pepper, and some grip. Stylish. 92/100
Aymeric Paillard La Vigne des Pères ‘Petit Père’ 2022 Saint-Joseph, Northern Rhône, France
From Sarras and the Châtaigner Lieu dit in Ozon. Whole bunch, semi-carbonic, then two years in barrel. Low intervention. Grippy, grainy and dark, with a savoury, spicy overlay to the fruit. Quite angular and meaty. 90/100
Yann Chave Saint-Joseph 2023 Northern Rhône, France
From a 2 hectare lieu dit called Les Pierres in Tournon. Echalas training, 30 year old vines. Destemmed. 18 months ageing in 600 litre barrels and wine globes. Spicy, meaty, peppery nose with some grip. Very stylish and expressive with a bit of grip here. 95/100
Yann Chave Saint-Joseph 2024 Northern Rhône, France
Supple and bright with nice peppery detail, and some grippy structure under the sweet, balanced black cherry and berry fruits. Savoury and slightly peppery, with nice focus and grippy structure. 94/100
Domaine Courbis Saint-Joseph ‘Les Royes’ 2023 Northern Rhône, France
A 7 hectare vineyard at the southern end of the appellation. Chalky clay soils, which are unusual here. Destemmed and then barrel aged (30% new). Supple and elegant, this is peppery with nice ripeness to the well balanced sweet berry fruits, with a touch of olive on the finish. 93/100
Domaine Colombet Saint-Joseph Réminiscence 2023 Northern Rhône, France
From Malleval and Saint Pierre de Boeuf. 5% new oak. Lovely intensity to this wine. Peppery and bright with appealing cherry fruit, good structure and some raspberry freshness. Detailed with nice energy. 95/100
Domaine J Denuzière Saint-Joseph 2023 Northern Rhône, France
Partial destemming, then ageing in tank and used oak. Juicy, supple and bright with sweet cherry and berry fruit as well as a hint of spiciness. Nice brightness: made in an elegant style. 93/100
Domaine Graeme & Julie Bott Saint-Joseph 2023 Northern Rhône, France
From Chavanay, St Pierre de Boeuf, Talencieux. 30% whole bunch, wild yeast, 15 months in small French oak. Bright and alert with vivid red fruits and some peppery detail. The palate is supple and elegant, with lovely poise. Real energy here. 94/100
Domaine Pierre Jean Villa Saint-Joseph Tildé 2023 Northern Rhône, France
Partially destemmed, aged 24 months in 225 and 500 litre oak. Open, meaty nose. Appealing, ripe palate with sweet cherry and berry fruits and some olive savourines. Ripe, nuanced and delicious. 94/100
Xavier Vignon Saint-Joseph 2023 Northern Rhône, France
Aged 15 months in barrel, 15% new. Ripe, sleek and inviting with appealing red cherry and strawberry fruit. Good ripeness and concentration. Very expressive in a ripe style. 93/100
Domaine Coursodon Saint-Joseph L’Olivaie 2023 Northern Rhône, France
Destemmed, aged 15 months in barrel, 15% new. Pepper, spice and black cherry with some olive intensity. There’s a slight meatiness, and also some woody hints in the background. 93/100
Domaine Coursodon Saint-Joseph La Sansonne 2023 Northern Rhône, France
100% new oak. Juicy and ripe with enticing sweet berries and cherries. Very ripe and luscious, made in an appealing, forward style. 93/100
Pierre Gaillard Saint-Joseph Les Pierres 2023 Northern Rhône, France
From Malleval and Chavanay, 18 months in 100% new oak. Meaty, intense and detailed with pepper and spice notes. Vibrant with good concentration and a pepper-laced finish. Rich but also complex, and it swallows the new oak very well. 95/100
Pierre Gaillard Saint-Joseph Clos de Cuminalle 2023 Northern Rhône, France
From a 3 hectare vineyard in Chavanay facing east, planted in 1981. Destemmed. 30% new oak. Loveluy focus and intensity here: floral, expressive and peppery with some olive tapenade notes and also some good structure. Very stylish. 95/100
Cave Saint-Désirat Saint-Joseph 2023 Northern Rhône, France
Destemmed, aged in stainless steel tanks. Juicy and bright with vivid cherry and berry fruits, backed by nice tannins and good acidity. There’s some brightness here. 92/100
M Chapoutier Saint-Joseph Les Granilites 2023 Northern Rhône, France
A blend of parcels mainly in the south of the appellation. Small and large barrels (20%) new and 20% in unlined concrete. Fresh, brooding black cherry and pepper, with some crushed rock minerality. Vibrant and complex, with lovely peppery detail. 95/100
Maison André Perret Saint-Joseph Les Grisières 2023 Northern Rhône, France
Plump, ripe and delicious with a core of sweet cherry and berry fruit, and a slight smoky edge to the ripe, plush fruit. 93/100
Domaine Jean-Claude Marsanne Saint-Joseph 2023 Northern Rhône, France
Destemmed, aged in small and larger oak. Lovely elegant style with sweet cherry and plum fruit, and a twist of pepper. Sleek and ripe, and well balanced. 93/100
Domaine Luyton-Fleury Saint-Joseph Origine 2023 Northern Rhône, France
Plot selection between Mauves and Tournon. Very old vines, aged 20 months in barrel, 20% new. Bright and fresh with some meaty, peppery detail and cherry and raspberry fruit. Very appealing. 93/100
Domaine Luyton-Fleury Saint-Joseph Les Cerisiers 2024 Northern Rhône, France
Attractive bold cherry and plum fruit with some peppery detail. Sleek and refined with spicy notes, and a peppery finish. 93/100
Domaine Pierre Jean Villa Saint-Joseph Préface 2024 Northern Rhône, France
Sweetly fruited with some oaky notes. Supple and ripe, and quite polished with a grainy, well defined finish. 92/100
Domaine des Remezières Saint-Joseph 2024 Northern Rhône, France
30% new oak. Ripe, fresh style with sleek cherry and berry fruit, as well as some peppery hints. Lovely texture and focus with sleek black fruits. 94/100
Domaine du Chêne Saint-Joseph Anaïs 2024 Northern Rhône, France
Aged 18 months in new oak. Vivid, fresh and floral with nice raspberry and cherry fruit, as well as a hint of strawberry richness. A ripe style but nicely fleshy and floral. 93/100
Vignoble Deleu Saint-Joseph Exorde 2024 Northern Rhône, France
From Serrières and Malleval. Forward, with bright cherry and raspberry fruit, with some spicy oak and a firm finish. 91/100
Domaine François Grenier Saint-Joseph Grange Bara 2024 Northern Rhône, France
One-third new oak. A ripe style with some oak impact. Spicy and rich, and quite brooding with a peppery finish. 92/100
Domaine Monier-Perreol Saint-Joseph Tradition 2023 Northern Rhône, France
Vivid and spicy with some meatiness. Brooding with a savoury edge to the black fruits. Peppery and grippy, this is ever so slightly rustic, in a good way. 94/100
Domaine du Tunel Saint-Joseph 2024 Northern Rhône, France
Tournel, Mauves and Glun. Vivid black cherry fruit with some peppery character. Ripe but focused with real elegance to the ripe black fruits. Serious. 95/100
Domaine Jolivet Saint-Joseph L’instinct 2024 Northern Rhône, France
90% granite soils, 10% loess. 5% new oak. Nice juicy edge to the sweet, well balanced black cherry and plum fruit, with nice grainy structure. Has balance. 93/100br
White wines
Domaine J Denuzière Saint-Joseph Blanc 2022 Northern Rhône, France
100% Marsanne, 25% barrel fermented, 75% stainless steel. Classic style with some oak supporting the dense pear and peach fruit. Nice weight. 92/100
M Chapoutier Saint-Joseph Blanc Les Granilites 2022 Northern Rhône, France
100% Marsanne. 80% barrel fermented (10% new), 20% stainless steel. Showing some development with appley, oxidative hints as well as stony, mineral laced pear and peach fruit. 90/100
Cave de Tain Saint-Joseph Blanc Parcellaires Terre d’Ivoire 2023 Northern Rhône, France
Granite terraces with some limestone. Fermented in used 400 litre oak. 91% Rousanne, 9% Marsanne. Nice weight with some oaky notes in the background as well as pear and peach fruit. Textural and engrossing. 93/100
Paul Jaboulet Ainé Saint-Joseph Blanc Le Grand Pompée 2024 Northern Rhône, France
Barrels, stainless steel and concrete eggs. A fresh, textured wine with sweet pear and citrus fruit. Nice mouthfeel with some weight in the mouth. 92/100
Domaine Colombet Saint-Joseph Blanc Promesse 2024 Northern Rhône, France
75% Roussanne, 25% Marsanne, single plot on top of Saint Pierre de Boeuf. Roussanne aged in oak, Marsanne in stainless steel. Intriguing fennel notes combine with ripe pears. Exotic fruity palate with lovely ripeness and detail. Real personality here. 94/100
Domaine François Grenier Saint-Joseph Blanc Fragrance 2024 Northern Rhône, France
80% Roussanne, 20% Marsanne. Nice texture here with yellow plum fruit and some pear, with a mineral twist on the finish. 92/100
Domaine Courbis Saint-Joseph Blanc Les Royes 2024 Northern Rhône, France
Chalky clay soil. Marsanne, 50% new oak. Supple, showing nice weight, and some coconut and spice from the oak. Fine grainy structure. 92/100
Domaine Graeme & Julie Bott Saint-Joseph Blanc 2024 Northern Rhône, France
70% Roussanne, 30% Marsanne. Chavanay and Saint Pierre de Boeuf. Textured, fine grained, showing appealing ripe pear and yellow plum fruit. Stylish with nice focus. 94/100
Hugo and Pauline Vila Saint-Joseph Blanc Marsanne 2024 Northern Rhône, France
Textured and rich with pear and white peach fruit, showing good density in the mouth. Has a nice spicy overlay with well integrated oak notes. 92/100
Domaine Jean-Claude Marsanne Saint-Joseph Blanc 2023 Northern Rhône, France
Fresh, stony and bright with nice green apple and pear fruit. Juicy and linear. 92/100
