Hacienda el Ternero is making impressive wines from the north of Rioja

Hacienda el Ternero is a little unusual in Rioja in that it’s a single estate, making wine from its own vineyards. Most of the best known Rioja wineries don’t own grapes, but buy in from growers.

Ternero is a village in the north of Rioja, tucked into the foothills of the Obarenes Mountains, which are a continuation of Sierra Cantabria. This is the coldest part of Rioja, with poor rocky soils that have high limestone content. Altogether they have 125 hectares of vines, and they use a proportion of this to make 100 000 bottles a year, and they sell the rest of the grapes.

I’d not come across Ternero before, but these are really smart wines at sensible prices.

UK agent is Ellis of Richmond

Hacienda El Ternero La Pera Branco 2023 Rioja, Spain
Textured and rich with pear and peach. Stainless steel then concrete means that the fruit shows through. So textural with lovely purity and a touch of salinity. 92/100

Hacienda El Ternero Selección Especial Rioja Branco 2024 Spain
100% Viura, planted 1990, wild yeast, 500 litre French oak, no sulfites until bottling. This is concentrated, rich and mineral with lovely intensity. Lovely saline notes on the finish. Subtle oak adds some spiciness. Aniseed. Bold, ripe yellow fruits. 93/100

Hacienda El Ternero Torno Rioja Crianza 2021 Spain
14.5% alcohol. Younger vines. Shorter maceration. Used oak. Stylish and grainy and mineral with some crunchy red fruits. Supple and ripe with nice definition. This is really good: ripe but well defined. 93/100

Hacienda El Ternero Rioja Selección Especial 2018 Spain
14.5% alcohol. Rich, bold, spicy and woody, with nice depth and richness. Real weight here, but also freshness and chalky tannins. Nice intensity here, developing in a good direction. 92/100

Hacienda El Ternero Rioja Reserva 2016 Spain
14%. From two vineyards, one planted in 1965 and one at 550 m that’s younger. Old French oak. Mineral and stony. Ripe but restrained with a fine spicy edge to the cherry and raspberry fruit. Lovely. 94/100