Bordeaux Claret: the new AOC Bordeaux Claret Controllée is an interesting move, broadening the appeal of Bordeaux reds
Bordeaux has a problem. It’s finding it increasingly hard to sell its cheaper red wines. AOP Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur volumes are down by 50% over the last five years. Producers have suffered from changing tastes (red wine is less popular), tariffs and climate change. Many are uprooting their vineyards.
In response, the region has done something that I think is very clever. It has taken an old name, Claret, and used it to define a new category of Bordeaux reds: lighter, fruitier, more approachable, and suitable for light chilling. With this change, packaging of these wines has also stepped into the modern age.
These are wines suited to modern consumer tastes. The term Claret was previously used by the British trade when it described lighter Bordeaux reds, although some UK merchants still use this term to describe all Bordeaux reds, including some that definitely aren’t in this modern category. They’ll have to begin to retire their use of the word.
The idea is for a new category of wines with lower tannin levels, relatively low in alcohol, and potentially up to 7 g/l of residual sugar. This doesn’t mean the wines are sweet. Most professionals can’t spot up to 4 g/l of residual sugar, and many won’t spot 7 g, and a lot of consumers won’t spot this either. It has the effect of rounding out the palate a bit, and making the tannins less abrasive.
The use of ‘Claret’ in conjunction with Bordeaux debuted with the 2025 vintage, and in the first year 16,500 hl were declared by 40 producers. So this is around 2.2 million bottles
Tannins are limited to a 209-55 IPT (Indice de Polyphénols Totaux, or the Total Polyphenol Index), there is no oak, and the colour is light, at 3 to 15 ICM Intensité Colorante Modifiée or Modified Color Intensity). The wines are designed to be served chilled.
I tried three of these wines and was impressed. I think this is a great initiative.
Sainte Barbe Claretttt 2025 Bordeaux Claret, France
13.5% alcohol. This is fresh, quite juicy, and has a little sweetness that rounds out the palate. Delicious ripe strawberry fruit with some sweet cherry. Low tannin and just a bit of grainy structure around the fringes. This is delicious, sweetly fruited, and softly textured and you could happily drink this from the fridge or with a couple of ice cubes in the glass. A great execution of the Claret idea. 89/100
Papa & Tonton Bordeaux Claret 2025 France
12.5% alcohol. Juicy and fruity with nice grainy structure under the red cherry and strawberry fruit, and then some wet stone minerality and a touch of sweetness on the finish. Massive drinkability, with a touch of seriousness, too. Lots to like about this fruit-driven wine that responds well to chilling. 91/100
Esprit Léger Bordeaux Claret 2025 France
12.5% alcohol. Wet stone edge to the redcurrant and cherry fruit nose, as well as some dried herbs. The palate is fresh, light and tangy with a core of sweetly textured cherry and raspberry fruit, showing a hint of crunchy structure, but also a sour cherry finish that counters the sweet fruit really nicely. A really nice example of this new style. 90/100
