How I love Gamay, and how exciting it is to see the Beaujolais wine region progressing and developing in such interesting ways. This wine is from a lieu dit that’s to the far west of Fleurie, on deep granite soils. It’s from vines planted in the 1920s and 30s, and it’s really good. Metrat is an underrated producer: I’ve enjoyed his wines quite a bit over the last few years. I visited back in 2016.
Domaine Metrat Fleurie La Roilette Cuvée Vieille Vignes 2018 Beaujolais, France
13% alcohol. This is fabulous. It shows great concentration, with some floral cherry and raspberry fruit with a silky texture, as well as some more serious structure on the palate with notes of pepper and herbs, as well as a nice weight. There are some savoury, slightly reductive notes framing the fresh, supple fruit, but they add interest rather than detract. Nice density and focus: a really lovely expression of Fleurie with some seriousness as well as pleasure. 93/100 (£16.99 Virgin Wines)
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