Van Volxem‘s history as a wine estate goes back to the 3rd century, and it’s based in Wiltingen in the Saar. The vineyards were abandoned, to be rediscovered by monks in the 11th century. In the 19th century it went into private hands, purchased by Belgian brewer Gustav van Volxem. After four generations in the van Volxem family, it passed to the hands of current owner, Roman Niewodniczanski in 2000. He makes terroir-focused wines and has avoided using the pradikat system. This Alte Reben bottling is from old vines (120 years) on the steepest slate slopes of the Van Volxem estate, and it’s a wine I’ve had lurking in my stash for a few years now. I opened it at the right time.
Van Volxem Riesling Alte Reben 2006 Mosel, Germany
12% alcohol. This is now mature: it’s a full golden colour and it’s delicious. There’s rich apple, lime and orange marmalade, with hints of mint, ginger and apricot. It’s really lively bringing together good acidity, fresh lime notes, and then the richer spicy marmalade, apricot, and honeyed notes. It manages to be rich but also light along the right time. Very fine, with a long finish and a mineral aftertaste. 95/100 (current release is around £50)
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