Guillaume d’Angerville, from Volnay in Bourgogne, established Domaine du Pélican in 2012 after he was seduced by a bottle of Jura Chardonnay. He now 15 hectares of vines between Arbois and Montigny, and farms his plots biodynamically – they are geographically close, which helps. This Savagnin is a beautifully layered wine that combines richness and freshness, with just a hint of wild tension.
Domaine du Pélican Savagnin Ouillé 2019 Arbois, Jura, France
Ouillé means that the wine has been made in a non-oxidative style, with the barrels topped up. This is a complex, distinctive Savagnin with rich aromas and flavours of ripe pear, baked apple and orange peel, with tangy acidity and some mineral, saline notes under the broad fruit. There are some fine bready notes and a touch of chalk, too, and some hints of cheese, as well as a nervy acidity with some sweet and sour characters on the finish. This wine combines richness, volume and also tension, finishing bright and tangy. 94/100 (£33.67 Justerinis, £37 The Good Wine Shop, £39.90 Hedonism)