The wines of Réné Rostaing, Northern Rhône
One of the top names in the northern Rhône, Réné Rostaing built up his domaine from scratch, and now has 7.5 hectares of Syrah on some of the top sites in the region. His timing was right: this would be close to impossible now, such is the fame of Côte-Rôtie and the small size of the appellation. Since 2015 winemaking has been overseen by his son Pierre.
Four single-vineyard Côte-Rôties are made: La Landonne, Côte Blonde, Côte Brune and La Viaillère (the newcomer), as well as a blend of terroirs called Ampodium.
Réné describes his winemaking approach (which has been continued by Pierre) as traditional. There’s no (or very little) new oak, and he says that very hygienic grapes are important because he does 100% whole bunch fermentation. Elevage is in a mix of small oak and demi muids.
These wines were tasted at the Justerini & Brooks 2021 Rhône en primeur tasting. The 2021s here are cask samples, with the older vintages currently available for purchase.
Website: https://www.justerinis.com/fine-wines/rhone/rene-rostaing/
THE WINES
Domaine Rostaing Condrieu La Bonnette 2021 Northern Rhône, France
Elegant, open aromatic nose with peach and apricot. The palate is fine and supple, fresh and balanced with pear and apricot notes and lovely weight. 94/100
Domaine Rostaing Côte-Rôtie Ampodium 2021 Northern Rhône, France
This is so refined. Has firm structure under the elegant, sweet black cherry fruit with some iodine and mineral notes, combining structure with finesse. Brilliant wine. 95/100
Domaine Rostaing Côte-Rôtie Ampodium 2017 Northern Rhône, France
Supple, open and refined with red cherry and plum fruit, showing a savoury, spicy edge . There’s a bit of development here and some woody hints. 93/100
Domaine Rostaing Côte-Rôtie La Landonne 2021 Northern Rhône, France
Very floral with notes of iodine and blood. This is linear and has lovely weight, with freshness and precision. It’s highly aromatic with lovely intensity, and it’s really vital. 96/100
Domaine Rostaing Côte-Rôtie Côte Blonde 2021 Northern Rhône, France
Supple and fine with nice structure. This is pretty with refined raspberry and red cherry fruit, showing elegance and finesse, as well as a lovely juicy finish. 95/100
Domaine Rostaing Côte-Rôtie Viallére 2019 Northern Rhône, France
Such finesse here: lovely elegant floral red cherry and raspberry fruit with fine-grained structure and peppery detail. There are hints of iodine and some mint on the finish. 96/100
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