Exploring the wines of Austria’s Styria region: a deep dive into Steiermark single-vineyard wines with the STK members
Jamie Goode explores the wines of Styria (Steiermark) in Austria and comes away impressed.
As part of the 2023 OTW single-vineyard summit, the members of another similar terroir-focused group were invited to join to present their wines. This is the STK (Steiermark Terroir und Klassikweinguter), which brings together 12 wineries in Steiermark (Styria). They have set out to indentify the top sites in the region, and have a number of levels for their vineyards, including Grosse STK Ried (Grand Cru sites), Erste STK Ried (Premier Cru sites) and Riedenwein (Crus).
The STK predates the OTW, which began in 2010 for Kremstal and Kamptal wines. STK was founded by the fathers of today’s generation of winegrowers. It was recognized in Austria as trying to emphasize the best wines in Styria, for the benefit of the whole area.
Half of the STK members are organic, and none use any herbicide.
The landscape here is one of steep hills, with a cool climate and a fair bit of rain. It makes work in the vineyards challenging, but it’s good for wine quality. There are 5100 hectares of vines in Styria, which is further broken down into three DACs: Vulkanland Steiermark, Südsteiermark and Weststeiermark.
These are the wines I tasted, listed by producer.
Frauwallner
Frauwallner Ried Stradener Rosenberg Grauburgunder 2021
13.5%. Sand & gravel soils. Fleshy and nicely spiced with sweet pear, table grape and citrus fruit. Textural and nicely poised with a slight saltiness on the finish. 91/100
Frauwallner Ried Buch Weissburgunder 2021
13%. Dark gray basalt. This has lovely freshness and mineral detail with a slight saltiness and nice pear and peach fruit, with a touch of grapey richness. 92/100
Frauwallner Ried Buch Morillon 2021
13.5%. Dark gray basalt. Some smoky minerality here with lovely purity and depth. Pear and peach fruit with fine spiciness. Lovely texture and weight in the mouth. Stylish stuff. 94/100
Frauwallner Ried Stradener Rosenberg Sauvignon Blanc 2021
13%. Volcanic tuff on coralline sediments. So vivid and expressive with amazing detail. Grapefruit and pear with a fine green elderflower twist. Really bright and expressive, with good concentration. Long mineral finish. 94/100
Frauwallner Ried Buch Sauvignon Blanc 2021
13% Dark gray Basalt Supple, elegant and expressive with a fine mineral core, some pear and white peach, a touch of citrus and nice green hints. Refined and expressive. 92/100
Frauwallner Ried Buch Sauvignon Blanc 2021
Complex, bold and rich with nice depth, showing pear, grapefruit, melon and subtle green notes with a slight spiciness. 94/100
Frauwallner Privat Sauvignon Blanc 2019
13% Dark gray Basalt. Good concentration here with refined spice, pear and peach, showing lots of ripeness and nice density. Has a subtle nutty edge and a rich texture. Very refined and with nice depth. 92/100
Gross
Gross Ried Kittenberg Weissburgunder 2019
12.5%. Red phyllitic slate and limestone. Textured and lively with bright pear and apple fruit, showing some fine-grained mineral structure under the fruit. Supple and expressive this is really vivid and refined. 92/100
Gross Ried Perz Gelber Muskateller 2020
11.5%. Clayey sand with gravel inclusions. Exotic floral, grapey nose with nice brightness and purity. Has keen acidity and a real presence in the mouth. Juicy and delicious. 92/100
Gross Ried Sulz Sauvignon Blanc 2019
13.5%. Blue calcareous marl. This is really stylish with a chalky undercurrent to the slightly green-tinged lemon and grapefruit, with some pear richness. Grainy, mineral and refined. 94/100
Gross Ried Nussberg Preschnigg Morillon 2019
13%. Limestone, calcareous sandstone and marl. Nicely poised with freshness and presence, showing pear and green apple as well as spicy citrus. Has a lovely mouthfeel and a bright finish. 93/100
Gross Ried Nussberg Stauder Weißburgunder 2019
12.5% alcohol. Limestone, calcareous sandstone and marl. Subtly honeyed nose with bright citrus fruit, leading to a palate with sweet pear and citrus as well as some grapey hints and a lovely chalky, mineral edge, finishing with fine acidity. Such balance. 93/100
Gross Ried Nussberg Sauvignon Blanc 2019
13.5%. Limestone, calcareous sandstone and marl. Sophisticated chalky, mineral nose with sweet pear and citrus fruit. The palate shows great concentration and fine green hints with a slight salinity on the finish. Very refined and sophisticated, this is a beautiful Sauvignon. 94/100
Gross Ried Nussberg Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Still taut, with good focus and some pithy notes, as well as a touch of bitterness. Lovely weight and balance here. Good concentration with some sweetness on the finish. 92/100
LacknerTinnacher
LacknerTinnacher Ried Steinbach Kogel Weissburgunder 2021
13%. Sand and gravel. Sweet pear and spice notes with generous fruit. Rounded and quite textured. There’s good depth to this wine. 90/100
LacknerTinnacher Ried Flamberg Morillon 2021
13%. Coral limestone. Nice deoth here, but also a sense of freshness with bright acidity under some textured fruit. Juicy and linear with a slight saltiness on the finish. 94/100
LacknerTinnacher Ried Welles Morillon 2021
13%. Gravel. Nice depth with a core of sweet pear and peach fruit. Soft and smooth, with nice weight in the mouth. 90/100
LacknerTinnacher Ried Steinbach Sauvignon Blanc 2021
13% Sand and gravel. Fresh and textured with light pear and citrus fruit, showing nice balance. Ripe fruit to the fore. 89/100
LacknerTinnacher Ried Flamberg Sauvignon Blanc 2021
13%. Coral limestone. Supple and expressive with a core of sweet pear and fine spices, finishing with a touch of citrus. 91/100
LacknerTinnacher Ried Welles Sauvignon Blanc 2021
13%. Gravel. Fresh and expressive with good concentration of finely spiced citrus fruit, with nice mineral notes adding an extra dimension. 93/100
LacknerTinnacher Ried Welles Sauvignon Blanc 2010
Mellow and layered with nice weight and a touch of apricot. There’s depth to this wine which has a touch of lanolin. Still quite fresh. 92/100
Maitz
Maitz Ried Sulz Welschriesling 2020
11%. Lime marl. Pure and linear with a stony, mineral edge to the sweet limey fruit. Focused and direct with lovely fruit expression. 90/100
Maitz Ried Krois Gelber Muskateller 2020
11% Lime marl. Highly exotic with bright citrus fruit, some yellow plum, and some table grape notes. Lively, dry and terpenic in the mouth. Quite fine. 91/100
Maitz Ried Schusterberg Morillon 2020
13% alcohol. Sand limestone. Juicy, bright and linear with nice precision. Has a stony mineral edge. Crisp and focused with nice precision. Chablis-like. 92/100
Maitz Ried Schusterberg Sauvignon Blanc 2020
13% alcohol. Sand limestone soils. Nice weight and focus here with bright acidity and some nice green hints in the background. Fruity and expressive. 90/100
Maitz Ried Hochstermetzberg Sauvignon Blanc 2020
13%. Gravel and lime marl. Quite mineral and layered with a fine spicy undercurrent to the sweet pear and citrus fruit. Sophisticated and refined. 93/100
Maitz Ried Hochstermetzberg Sauvignon Blanc 2006
Lively, powerful and linear, this is still fresh with a nice crystalline character and just a bit of evolution. 93/100
Maitz Ried Hochstermetzberg Rheinriesling 2020
12.5%. Gravel and lime marl. Textured with appealing citrus fruit and gentle structure. Lovely fruit here with a subtly salty finish. Understated and refined. 92/100
Neumeister
Neumeister Ried Steintal Roter Traminer 2021
13%. Sarmat gravel and lime sandstone. Smoky, spicy and mineral on the nose. It’s quite fleshy and sweetly fruited in the miouth with turkish delight, fine spices and some cherry and pear fruit. 91/100
Neumeister Ried Steintal Roter Traminer 2019
Grapey and rich with some notes of Turkish delight and fine spices. Has zippy acidity on the finish as well as some phenolic structure. Great balance. 92/100
Neumeister Ried Klausen Weissburgunder 2021
13%. Lime sandstone. Juicy and vibrant with nice precision. Sweet pear and table grape notes with some spicy citrus. Has a touch of mineral, with good acidity. Shows delicacy and finesse. 93/100
Neumeister Ried Saziani Grauburgunder 2021
13.5%. Sarmat gravel. Nice weight and spicy structure with generous fine-grained pear, cherry and melon fruit. Has some structure and weight, as well as lovely fruit. 92/100
Neumeister Ried Moarfeitl Morillon 2021
13.5% alcohol. Marl and sarmat gravel. Nice focus to this wine which shows minerals and spices under the pear and citrus fruit. Lovely detail with a delicate spiciness. 92/100
Neumeister Ried Klausen Sauvignon Blanc 2021
13% Lime sandstone. A really textural expression of Sauvignon with mineral detail to the stylish pear, apple and citrus fruit. Has a lovely spicy dimension. So refined. 94/100
Neumeister Ried Moarfeitl Sauvignon Blanc 2021
13% Marl and sarmat gravel. A textural Sauvignon showing fine spices and minerals under the focused pear and citrus fruit. Good concentration and refinement here with a stony quality on the finish. 93/100
Polz
Polz Ried Theresienhöhe Sauvignon Blanc 2021
13% Chlorite schists. Highly aromatic with some melon, lemon and a twist of green. Bright, linear fruity palate with a twist of spice and some zesty liveliness. Lovely. 91/100
Polz Ried Theresienhöhe “Reserve” Sauvignon Blanc 2020
12.5% Chlorite schists. Supple and fruity with a hint of apple and some cherry, with a touch of stony minerality and a core of bright citrus fruit. 91/100
Polz Ried Grassnitzberg Licht Sauvignon Blanc 2021
14% Clay on coraline limestone. Fruity and rounded with supple spice-laden citrus fruit and good density. Bright and fruity but with some layers, and a touch of mineral. 92/100
Polz Ried Hochgrassnitzberg Sauvignon Blanc 2021
13.5% alcohol. Coralline limestone. Very fruity and expressive with lovely cherry and pear character as well as some fine mineral notes and just a hint of saltiness. 91/100
Polz Ried Hochgrassnitzberg Sauvignon Blanc 2010
Fruity and youthful with a touch of reduction on the nose. Notes of spice and minerals, too. Very stylish and pure. 94/100
Polz Ried Grassnitzberg Licht Welschriesling 2021
13% Clay on coralline limestone. Lovely vivid fruit here with a slight tropical edge to the linear lemon fruit. Pure and focused, and quite stylish. 91/100
Polz Ried Obegg Aeon Morillon 2021
13.5%. “Leitha” limestone rock. Some richness here. Sweet pear and white peach fruit with some stony notes, and a nice texture in the mouth, with fine spices. 91/100
Erwin Sabathi
Erwin Sabathi Ried Krepskogel Gelber Muskateller 2022
12.5% Very barren “Opok” soil (chalky marl). Highly aromatic and terpenic with table grapes and lime. In the mouth this is dry, fruity and pithy with some salinity. Lively and expressive with lovely fruit. 91/100
Erwin Sabathi Ried Pössnitzberg Sauvignon Blanc 2021
13% Opok soil (chalky marl). So interesting with a bold, spicy, mineral core to the vivid citrus fruit. Has keen acidity with a juicy finish. Lovely stuff. 93/100
Erwin Sabathi Ried Pössnitzberg Kapelle Sauvignon Blanc 2019
Ripe and textured with mineral notes and broad but focused citrus fruit. Layered but interesting. 93/100
Erwin Sabathi Ried Pössnitzberg Alte Reben Sauvignon Blanc 2021
13% Opok soil (chalky marl). Crystalline and expressive with a sweet citrus core and notes of dried herbs and minerals, with a slight honeyed richness. Very expressive and well balanced. 93/100
Erwin Sabathi Ried Saffran Chardonnay 2021
13%. Argillaceous, silty marine deposits of thin sandstone interstratifications. Juicy, finely spiced, mineral-laced and refined with lovely weight to the pear and citrus fruit. Stylish and pure. 93/100
Erwin Sabathi Ried Pössnitzberg Chardonnay 2021
13.5% Opok soil (chalky marl). Very stylish with some fine mineral characters and a touch of spiciness. Lovely concentrated citrus and pear fruit, with fine nutty notes. So expressive and refined. 94/100
Erwin Sabathi Ried Pössnitzberg Alte Reben Chardonnay 2021
13.5% Opok soil (chalky marl). Expressive and fine with a concentrated mineral core and some generous pear and peach fruit, with some crystalline citrus notes. Has depth, but stays fresh, finishing with a hint of aniseed. 94/100
Hannes Sabathi
Hannes Sabathi Ried Dirnbeck Sauvignon Blanc 2020
13% Gravel/sandstone. Bright and expressive with lovely citrus fruit and some pear richness, with a fine green hint. It’s fruit driven and a little mineral with nice density. 90/100
Hannes Sabathi Ried Loren Sauvignon Blanc 2020
13.5% Limestone marl. This shows a lovely green tinge to the bright lemony fruit. Has some mineral character and keen acidity, with a nice weight in the mouth. Fruity and bold with lovely acidity. Stylish and bright. 91/100
Hannes Sabathi Ried Kranachberg Sauvignon Blanc 2020
13.5% Gravel. Some ripeness here, with a juicy core of citrus and yellow plum, showing good fruit and nice weight in the mouth. 90/100
Hannes Sabathi Ried Kranachberg Sauvignon Blanc 2016
Grainy, fine and mineral with good focus and precision. There’s a creamy richness here and a touch of development. Very stylish. 93/100
Hannes Sabathi Alte Reben Sauvignon Blanc 2019
13.5% Gravel. Bold and rich with some spicy oak in the mix, which also adds a bit of creaminess. Nice ripe pear and white peach fruit. Textural and refined, 91/100
Hannes Sabathi Ried Jägerberg Chardonnay 2021
13% Limestone marl. Smoky, mineral and spicy with nice weight of pear and peach fruit with some citrus brightness. Quite stylish. 92/100
Hannes Sabathi Ried Jägerberg Grauburgunder 2021
13% Limestone marl. Juicy, expressive with nice concentration of sweet fruit. Has a bright, lively personality with lovely smoky, mineral notes. Very stylish. 93/100
Sattlerhof
Sattlerhof Ried Sernauberg Sauvignon Blanc 2021
13% Cristalline quarz and sandstone. Beautifully expressive nose of minerals, spices and lime, with a hint of mandarin. The palate is supple and fine-grained with a lovely mineral spicy edge and supple citrus and pear fruit. Very fine. 94/100
Sattlerhof Ried Trinkaus Sauvignon Blanc 2019
Lively, focused and bright. Slightly pithy with direct citrus fruit and some rich pear and peach fruit. Finely spiced with nice detail. 92/100
Sattlerhof Ried Kapellenweingarten Sauvignon Blanc 2021
13% Quarz and gravel. So distinctive with a bright, linear acid line and sweet pear and citrus fruit. Has some mid-palate plumpness with a touch of melon, but then finishes with racy acidity. 93/100
Sattlerhof Ried Kapellenweingarten Morillon 2021
13% Quarz and gravel. There’s a subtle creaminess under the bold pear and citrus fruit. Has an ease about it with sweet fruit, a bit of mineral, and then soft creamy notes. 91/100
Sattlerhof Ried Alter Kranachberg Sauvignon Blanc 2021
13.5% Gravel bound in limestone, quartz topping. Very stylish with fine-grained structure. Quite mineral and expressive with a juicy core but also some mineral detail. Stylish and refined. 93/100
Sattlerhof Ried Pfarrweingarten Burgunder 2021
13.5% Coralline limestone rock. Creamy and juicy with nice acidity, showing lovely balance. Some mineral character, refined acidity and an understated layered complexity. 93/100
Sattlerhof Ried Pfarrweingarten Fassreserve Burgunder 2017
13.5% Coralline limestone rock. Stylish with some fine spicy detail as well as pear and peach fruit. This is evolving in a very interesting way and is still quite youthful and mineral. 94/100
Tement
Tement Ried Sulz Morillon 2020
12.5%. Blue marl. Concentrated, lively and showing a lovely acid line, with fine spicy notes and bold pear and citrus. Great intensity to this wine, but also balanced. Mineral and refined. 94/100
Tement Ried Kriewetz Morillon 2020
13% Brown marl. Crystalline citrus fruit the core of this energetic wine, with a sweetness to the fruit and nice broad texture. Shows good intensity and focus. 93/100
Tement Ried Zieregg Steilriegel Morillon 2020
13% Cambisol on coraline limestone. Concentrated, textural and refined. Mineral with a lovely stony, salty edge to the bold citrus fruit. Such precision here with great acidity. Profound stuff. 96/100
Tement Ried Zieregg Kapelle Sauvignon Blanc 2020
13% alcohol. Clay on coralline limestone rock. An intriguing, textural expression of Sauvignon with lovely purity to the mineral edged citrus fruit, with just a hint of green. Amazing detail and refinement. 94/100
Tement Ried Zieregg Kår Sauvignon Blanc 2020
13.5%. Coralline limestone rock. Lovely expressive style with bright citrus and pear, showing a mineral edge and concentrated, refined fruit, finishing bright and a little saline. 94/100
Tement Ried Zieregg Sauvignon Blanc 2020
13.5% Marl on coralline limestone rock. Juicy and mineral with a salty twist to the focused pear and citrus fruit. Nice balance here: good concentration and some generosity to the fruit. 94/100
Tement Ried Zieregg Sauvignon Blanc 2007
Crystalline with a touch of toast as well as lively citrus fruit. Has brightness but also depth with a lovely mineral character. 94/100
Winkler-Hermaden
Winkler-Hermaden Ried Rosenleiten Morillon 2020
13% Tertiary sea and river sediments. Ripe and fruit driven with open pear and mandarin fruit, backed up by good acidity. Juicy and linear with nice weight. 90/100
Winkler-Hermaden Ried Schlosskogel Grauburgunder 2020
13% Volcanic tuff and lake sediments. Ripe with sweet, smooth, finely spiced pear and apple fruit, with a hint of honey and some stoniness. 89/100
Winkler-Hermaden Ried Hochwarth Sauvignon Blanc 2020
13.5% Red basalt. A vivid, fruity, juicy style of Sauvignon with lemon and mandarin fruit. Quite pure and focused with nice weight. Lovely balance here. 91/100
Winkler-Hermaden Ried Hochwarth Sauvignon Blanc 2017
13.5% Red basalt. This shows appealing ripe pear and peach fruit with some soft texture on the mid-palate. A ripe, forward, generous wine. 90/100
Winkler-Hermaden Ried Kirchleiten Sauvignon Blanc 2020
13.5% Tertiary sea and river sediments. Spicy and quite exotic with lovely bright fruit. Finely spiced with pear and peach. Has an ease to it. 91/100
Winkler-Hermaden Ried Kirchleiten Traminer 2020
13% Tertiary sea and river sediments. Highly exotic on the nose with turklish delight and table grapes, leading to a generous but focused spice-laden palate with layeres of detail. 92/100
Winkler-Hermaden Olivin Reserve 2017
Black cherries and some smoke here with nice tannins. There’s a spicy quality and a touch of chocolate. Shows freshness, structure and also drinkability. 92/100
Wohlmuth
Wohlmuth Ried Dr. Wunsch Riesling 2022
12.5% Phyllitic red slate with quarzstones. Concentrated, fine and really mineral with fine spices and a vivid core of crystalline citrus fruit. So lovely: this is vibrant and detailed. 94/100
Wohlmuth Ried Steinriegl “Strohbart” Riesling 2021
12% Phyllitic red slate with quartzstones. There’s some generosity to the ripe citrus fruit here with a lovely fine spicy framing to the palate. Has a hint of apricot and melon, but it’s still well balanced. 93/100
Wohlmuth Ried Edelschuh Riesling 2021
13% Phyllitic black and red slate with quartzstones. Lively and vivid with brisk citrus fruit and some nice mineral characters. Shows depth but also focus with some nice saline twists on the finish. Lovely fruit here. 93/100
Wohlmuth Ried Edelschuh Riesling 2017
Crystalline and fresh with brightness and a distinctive mineral edge. Has lime, spicy, good acidity and great precision. 93/100
Wohlmuth Ried Sausaler Schlössl Sauvignon Blanc 2021
13% alcohol. Phyllitic black and red slate with quartzstones. Good concentration with weighty pear and citrus fruit, showing a bit of richness. Full and rounded with nice depth to it. 92/100
Wohlmuth Ried Hochsteinriegl Sauvignon Blanc 2021
13% Phyllitic red slate with quartzstones. Nicely balanced with good concentration to the ripe pear, peach and citrus fruit, as well as a hint of apple. Bold, smooth fruit with real appeal. 93/100
Wohlmuth Ried Edelschuh Sauvignon Blanc 2021
13% Phyllitic black and red slate with quartzstones. Textural and expressive with nice weight of pear and peach fruit. This expresses the ripe side of Sauvignon, showing good concentration and generous fruit. 93/100
