Álvar de Dios: making exceptional wines in Arribes, Toro and Zamora, Spain
Website: https://alvardedios.com/en/
Álvar de Dios works in Zamora, near the border with Portugal, in three different villages, including the southern part of Toro DO and a very interesting area called Arribes de Duero, on the international Douro which forms the border with Portugal. The third is Viña de Zamora. But Álvar can’t use the names of the appellations on the labels, because the Spanish rules require that you vinify the wines in the DO, so he’d have to have a winery in each region to use the name. So he labels them under the broader regional DO of Castilla y León.
Álvar de Dios began his project in 2008, when he took over his grandfather Donaciano’s centenarian vineyards. They are in the Toro DO, but this is the most southerly outpost of the appellation, with very different soils to the rest. The vines are ungrafted and were planted in 1919. His first wine was a red called Aciano, and this was followed by a white, Vagüera, made from a mixed vineyard with more than a dozen varieties. He started his own winery in 2014 and the following year he expanded into Arribes del Duero, and from old vines in interesting terroirs he makes the Camino de los Arrieros, Las Vidres and Yavallo.
He now has 12 hectares of owned vineyards across the three villages, and also makes some negociant wine. All the domaine red wines spend one year in barrel and then a year in concrete.
THE WINES
Álvar de Dios Tio Uco 2022 Tierra de Castillo y León, Spain
90% Tinto de Toro and 10% Grenache, from Toro. Negociant wine. Lovely floral cherry fruit nose is highly aromatic, pure and ethereal. The palate is fresh and supple with nice structure under the ripe, concentrated yet elegant fruit. Very fine and beautifully expressive with a lovely texture. 94/100
Álvar de Dios Aciano 2019 Tierra de Castillo y León, Spain
The most southerly part of Toro with sandy soils and sandstone. Ungrafted Tinto de Toro vines planted in 1919 owned by his grandfather. Wonderful nose of sour cherry and wax with nice weight on the palate. Supple, elegant and fine-grained with some aniseed and lovely stony notes. Textured with grippy tannins and exotic spices: a thrilling wine. 96/100
Álvar de Dios Camino de Los Arrieros 2019 Tierra de Castillo y León, Spain
This is from the northern part of Arribes, with volcanic schist soils (normally Arribes is granite). A field blend of 36 different varities including Rufete, Juan Garcia, Trincadeira, Bastardo and Mandón. So supple and elegant with lovely red fruits and some fine spices, with hints of tar and earth. Very mineral and expressive with a juicy quality. Bright and focused. 94/100
Álvar de Dios Yavallo 2020 Tierra de Castillo y León, Spain
This if from Arribes and the soils are schist with a lot of iron. Bastarda (65%) is the main grape and this spends one year in big barrel and one in amphora. Very pale in colour. Elegant, refined, ethereal: a lovely lighter style red. So pale but with fine herbs, sappy cherries, some strawberries and a super-smooth mouthfeel. Delicate, elegant and expressive. Quite brilliant. 95/100
Álvar de Dios Las Vidres 2019 Tierra de Castillo y León, Spain
This is from white schist soils in Arribes, and it’s a white from Doña Blanca. Direct pressed to barrel where it stays a year, then one year in concrete. Supple and fine with lovely citrus nose as well as fine spices. Quite stony and vibrant in the mouth. Pretty and textural with a lovely mouthfeel. 94/100
Álvar de Dios Vagüera 2021 Tierra de Castillo y León, Spain
From 1920 planted Doña Blanca from 950 m, clay/limestone soils, neutral French oak. Textural, fine and expressive with fine pear and white peach fruit as well as some white peach and a mineral streak. Refined and textural with great balance. 94/100
Older notes:
Álvar de Dios Tio Uco 2020 Tierra de Castillo y León, Spain
From Toro. This bright and intense with fresh berry and cherry fruit with some nice grippy structure and some peppery notes. Lovely intensity here with some grip and a really vital mouthfeel. Nice depth and intensity. Finishes dry and dusty with nice focus. 93/100
Álvar de Dios Camino de Los Arrieros 2019 Tierra de Castillo y León, Spain
This is from Arribes on the international Douro, with schist soils. Rufete, Juan Garcia, Trincadeira, Bastardo and Mandón. Floral, bright, light and expressive. Has some silkiness to the bright cherry and plum fruit, with a touch of redcurrant. There’s a real finesse and elegance here with real vitality. Light, expressive and very fine. 94/100
Álvar de Dios Vagüera 2020 Tierra de Castillo y León, Spain
From 95 year old Doña Blanca from 900 m, clay/limestone soils, neutral French oak. This is mineral, textural and expressive with a touch of lemon peel pithiness as well as a mineral edge. Refined. 92/100
