Casa de Mouraz, a biodynamic producer in Portugal’s Dão region
Website: http://www.casademouraz.com/en/
Back in 2000, Sara Dionísio and António Ribeiro left their jobs in Lisbon to become full-time winegrowers in the Dão region, with a commitment to farm organically. In 2006 they took things a step further, working in biodynamics – one of Portugal’s pioneers of this farming approach.
They have vineyards located in several parcels, and ranging in altitude from 100-400 m. Mouraz is where António’s family comes from, and they have been farming vineyards for many generations.
The emphasis here is on indigenous grape varieties such as Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Alfrocheiro, Jaen, Baga, Água-Santa, Malvasia Fina, Bical, Cerceal, Encruzado and Alvarinho.
Back in 2017 their vineyards were severely damaged by the wildfires that hit northern and central Portugal, along with their home and warehouse. They have replanted them, but most are not producing yet. In the interim, they have been renting some vineyards which they farm.
As well as making wines from their vineyards in the Dão, since 2006 they have also been producing a range of wines from other regions under the label AIR project (António Lopes Ribeiro). This is based on 25 hectares of vines in the Alentejo, Douro and Minho.
Some of their wines are labelled ‘Planet Mouraz’ and these are experimental bottlings, not DOC wines. I tasted these wines with Sara at Simplesmente Vinho in Porto.
THE WINES
Casa de Mouraz Pita 2022 Dão, Portugal
This is a ‘Pitanat’ not a Pet Nat, explains Sara. It’s mainly Arinto and is disgorged. Lovely citrus core with bright lemony fruit, and a hint of seaweed and fine dried herbs. Pure, vivid and dry and quite lovely. 91/100
Casa de Mouraz Planet Mouraz Bolinha 2021 Dão, Portugal
Made from old mixed white varieties with no sulfites, except for a small addition just before bottling. 2 months skin contact. Chestnut flour is used as a preservative: they make a tea and add this when they add grapes to the tank. Lovely aromatics with vivid citrus fruit and some lime character. The palate is minty and vivid with a distinctive thyme and rosemary character, showing vivid lime and pear fruit. 92/100
Casa de Mouraz Encruzado 2018 Dão, Portugal
Just stainless steel. Supple and fruity with lively citrus fruit. Some dried herbs, too. So fresh and linear with nice weight, showing brightness and focus with some fennel hints. 93/100
Casa de Mouraz Planet Mouraz Nina 2022 Dão, Portugal
This is an old rented vineyard and it’s a half red/half white ferment – a palhete. Chestnut flour used as a preservative. Very pale red in colour. Bright and textural with lovely supple cherry and pear fruit, with some orange peel. Massive drinkability here, with a lightness to its texture. 93/100
Casa de Mouraz Planet Mouraz Chibu 2020 Dão, Portugal
80% red, 20% white grapes from and old vineyard that they rent. Organically farmed. Pale red but with some structure and acidity, and plenty of strawberry and cherry fruit as well as some dried herbs and a bit of grip. Stylish and assured. 94/100
António Lopes Ribeiro Tinto 2021 Vinho Verde, Portugal
This is a palhete from Vinhão and Loureiro. Bright cherry red in colour, this shows lovely supple, vivid raspberry fruit with a nice acid line. Tangy with some citrus, this has lovely presence and fruit focus but also some texture. 94/100
Casa de Mouraz Palhete 2021 Dão, Portugal
This has many varieties in it – a field blend. A juicy, vivid, light-style red with fine sappy herbal hints and bright cherries and raspberries. Lovely balance here: stony, bright and vivid. 92/100
Casa de Mouraz Elfa 2017 Dão, Portugal
This is made in stainless steel and spends three years in tank! Baga is the main variety, but there are others, including some white ones. Ripe but fresh with lovely texture, showing sweet cherries and plums with a real sense of harmony. Fine-grained structure with a bit of flesh and hints of iodine and minerals. 95/100
Casa de Mouraz Private Selection 2017 Dão, Portugal
50% aged in barrel, the rest in stainless steel. Concentrated and textured with nice ripeness and sleek black fruits, with some sweet cherry and plum fruit. Very textural and fine, with a sour cherry tang. Quite lovely. 94/100
Older notes from 2016
Casa de Mouraz Loureiro Lima 2015 Vinho Verde
8.9% alcohol. Lively and intense. Lemony and precise with apple and lemon. Real intensity with a limey finish. 90/100
Casa de Mouraz Branco Dão 2013
This is a field blend. Really aromatic and lively with citrus and pear fruit. Pure and pith with nice focus and great acidity. 91/100
Casa de Mouraz Rosé 2015
Crisp, bright and juicy, with citrus and pear and a bit of cherry. Very lively and focused. 89/100
Casa de Mouraz Vinho Verde Tinto 2015
This was given skin contact in the press then pressed, and treated like a white wine. Spicy and reductive with a raspberry nose. Grippy, fresh and juicy with raspberry and redcurrant on the palate. 89/100
Casa de Mouraz Tinto Dão 2012
Field blend. Dense and a bit meaty with grippy raspberry and black cherry fruit. Some liquorice and a bit of grippy structure. Leafy edge. 90/100
Casa de Mouraz Elfa 2013
85 year old vines, 30 different varieties. Lively and detailed with some leathery, spicy, textured raspberry and cherry fruit. Fine grained tannins here. Good structure and texture with real interest. 94/100
Casa de Mouraz AIR 2012 Alentejo
Warm, sweet and textural with some nice purity and warmth. Ripe. 90/100
Casa de Mouraz Antonio Lopes Ribeiro 2013 Douro
Sweet cherries and raspberries on the liqueur-like nose. Notes of liquorice and spice with grippy black fruits and nice structure and freshness. 91/10
Casa de Mouraz Antonio Lopes Ribeiro 2012 Douro
Made in lagares, no oak. Mainly Touriga Franca. Structured, dense and a bit grippy wih nice pure black fruits. Firm and focused with good structure and acidity. 91/100
