The wines of Jocelyn Hogan, a top producer from South Africa
Jocelyn Hogan began her wine project in 2014. The wines have always been good but with the 2021 vintage they have moved up a gear. She buys grapes from seven farms, and three of them are switching to regenerative farming, eliminating herbicide and using cover crops. She works with a light hand, and picks quite early. For the reds, there are just two punch downs a day and they are matured for 11 months in older oak barrels. For whites, she does full malolactic.
THE WINES
Hogan The Galvanized Chardonnay 2021 Banghoek, South Africa
12% alcohol. This is from a vineyard on the Simonsberg at 550 m altitude, adjacent to Thelema. It’s a cool site that gets 1200 mm rain a year and can be 5 C lower than Stellenbosch twon on warm days. Full malolactic. Fine, expressive and bright with lovely citrus drive. Pure and linear with some grapefruit. Such a linear wine with real precision. 94/100
Hogan Chenin Blanc 2021 Swartland, South Africa
This vineyard is picked four times over 10 days to get every grape at its right time. Very textural and expressive with a nice spicy detail to the green apple and pear fruit. Very nice weight and purity. 94/100
Hogan Mirror for the Sun Cabernet Franc 2021 Stellenbosch, South Africa
From decomposed granite soils on the Helderberg. Supple, fresh and fine grainbed with lovely floral raspberry and cherry fruit. Has a chalky, grainy edge with nice raspberry and cherry fruit on the palate, showing lovely finesse and even a hint of mint. 95/100
Hogan Divergent 2019 Coastal Region, South Africa
13% alcohol. This was inspired by Château Musar from the Lebanon. It’s a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault and Carignan, with a month between pickings of the first and last grapes. So supple and fine with lovely focus and precision, showing blackberry and blackcurrant fruit with some cherry brightness. Has nice freshness and detail with real potential. 94/100
Hogan Divergent 2021 Coastal Region, South Africa
Fresh and supple with lovely bright red cherry and raspberry fruit, as well as fresh blackcurrant. Fine with good structure, showing a slight saltiness and good weight. Lovely wine. 95/100
