A New York State/Finger Lakes study with 9 interesting wines
Last night I presented a masterclass at 67 Pall Mall on some of the wines from New York state, with a strong emphasis on wines of the Finger Lakes, but also an exceptional (and unusual) wine from Long Island. Here are my notes.
Empire Estate Blanc de Blancs NV Finger Lakes, New York
This is a traditional method sparkling Riesling that was a real revelation. Sommelier Thomas Pastuzak created Empire Estate to showcase Finger Lakes Riesling, and the wines are made by Kelby Russell. The base wine here is a perpetual reserve started in 2018, and the wine is aged just one year en tirage, with the complexity coming from the base wine. It’s really pure and fine, and the Riesling character is tamed somewhat by the solera system, bringing a refined citrus fruit purity and some subtle honey and toast around the fringes. Lovely acid line. A really superb fizz. 93/100
Apollo’s Praise The Knoll Riesling 2023 Finger Lakes, New York
13% alcohol. Great to try this, the first release of the Knoll, the flagship wine from Kelby Russell and Julia Hoyle’s new venture, after they bought the vineyard that Kelby had been working with at Red Newt for many years. Fruit crushed, cold soaked for 4 days, then fermented with indigenous yeasts in tank. Lovely precision and detail with lime, lemon and then some almost floral notes, with great intensity. Such elegance and precision in the mouth, combining sweet citrus fruit with fine spicy detail, tapering to a fine finish. This has power and refinement and is truly exceptional. 95/100
Hermann J Wiemer HJW Bio Riesling 2020 Finger Lakes, New York
Textured and rounded with nice citrus fruit as well as a hint of peach. Finely spiced with some subtle peachy richness, offering power and also some crystalline complexity. Developing nicely. 93/100
Dr Konstantin Frank Winery Dry Riesling 2023 Finger Lakes, New York
Highly aromatic. Bright and vivid aith lemon and lime fruit but also some rich pear and melon character, framed with fine spicy notes. Juicy and balanced, with a subtle breadiness and a fine, almost saline dimension. Beautifully expressive. 94/100
Osmote Chardonnay 2023 Seneca Lake, Finger Lakes, New York
Supple and fresh with well balanced pear and white peach fruit with some fine spicy notes. There’s a subtle breadiness and a fine, almost saline dimension that’s really interesting. Smoothly textured and refined. 94/100
Keuka Lake Vineyards Vignoles 2022 Finger Lakes, New York
This is one of the most impressive hybrid wines from the region. It has lovely vital citrus fruit with good acidity and some pithy structure. Lively and bright with zesty lime fruit and nice presence. Taut, lively and energetic. 92/100
Channing Daughters Ramato 2022 Long Island, New York
Skin fermented Pinot Grigio with 2% Muscat in the blend. Beautiful aromatics here: fresh, refined and perfumed with pear and grape notes as well as a touch of cherry. Textural and refined and so nice in the mouth with just a bit of tannic bite, and spicy detail. Very refined. 94/100
Hosmer Winery Cabernet Franc 2022 Finger Lakes, New York
This is remarkable. It’s supple, refined and beautifully elegant, made in a lighter style. Sweet red cherries and wild strawberries with some fine spicy notes. Really elegant and fine, showing sweet fruit and some delicacy. Lovely purity, with a refined finish. 94/100
Lamoreaux Landing T23 Cabernet Franc 2022 Finger Lakes, New York
This is punchy, with nice fruity aromatics. Vibrant cherry and raspberry fruit with a slight meaty edge, a touch of aniseed and some wood spice characters. Nice vibrancy here. 92/100
