Crozes-Hermitage (17) Laurent Fayolle

February 21, 2025February 26, 2025 jamiegoode 660 Views crozes-hermitage, Northern Rhone

Laurent Fayolle is one of the stars of Crozes-Hermitage, and his family domaine is base in the north, in the village of Gervans. The domaine was started by his grandfather in 1959: he had been selling grapes to the negociant and making a little wine for neighbours, but the grape price got so low he decided to start vinifying all his grapes. Within two years he was selling to the USA and the UK. And for 30 years the domaine worked with Tony Laithwaite (Direct Wines, Laithwaites, Sunday Times Wine Club) in the UK.

In the 1970s Laurent’s father and brother took over, and worked together for 30 years, but when it was time for the next generation to get involved, it was clear that there were different views about direction, and so in 2000 the family domaine split. With his father, Laurent took their portion and the two began farming organically. Because they are in the north of Crozes, where it can be quite hilly, this was a tricky transition and they had to use horses to work the steeper plots. It took a while for the vines to adapt to this organic regime.

‘We can feel the evolution in our wines with the way we farm today from the viticulture we did 20 years ago,’ says Laurent, as we work through some of the hillside plots. ‘In 2024 if you look at the vineyards from the top of the hill, you can see the expression of the vineyards by how the growers farm,’ he says. The difference was much more evident in a vintage like 2024.

Gervans is in the north, the original part of the appellation, and it’s now getting a lot of attention. ‘For a long time, a few winemakers have tried to show the expression of wines from this area,’ says Laurent. ‘It’s nice because there is new energy from the north part of this appellation. Chapoutier and Jaboulet both have single vineyards here. It helps to make this area more famous. It’s where the story started in 1937. At the beginning it was only the vines from Crozes-Hermitage that were allowed to make these wines, and then in 1951 the appellation was expanded to 11 villages.’

A trial growing grass in the understory as a permanent cover

In 2022 they started to pick white at 24 August. In 2023 it was warm and then in the beginning of September the acidity started to drop but there wasn’t enough alcohol: which to choose? ‘For me, the acidity is more important,’ says Laurent. ‘For the last 3 vintages they have being picking the whites at 12.5% alcohol. We didn’t want to wait longer to lose the acidity, so in 2023 we picked from 1-5 September.’

THE WINES

Laurent Fayolle Sens Crozes-Hermitage Blanc 2023
60% Marsanne, 40% Roussanne, different parcels mainly in Gervon and Crozes-Hermitage. Mainly loess soils, but one parcel is more clay. Half in stainless steel, and half in concrete, plus one Tava amphora. Full yellow colour. Bold and nuanced with fine spicy detail to the rich pear and apricot fruit. Has lovely depth with some mineral hints. So lively with intense fruitiness and then a stony, mineral character. Lovely texture and intensity here. 94/100

Laurent Fayolle Les Pontaix Crozes-Hermitage Blanc 2023
70 year old Marsanne at the top of the hill, decomposed granite with a bit of loess. Vinified and aged in demi-muids, less than 10% new, plus one wine globe. Full yellow colour. Lovely depth and texture with some apple, ripe pear, melon and white peach. It’s rich and mouth-filling but also has some brightness and some spicy framing. Fresh with some finesse and a long, finely-spiced finish. 94/100

Laurent Fayolle Crozes-Hermitage Sens 2023
A blend of different plots. 50% the south of the appellation, two plots in Les Châssis, and the other part is at the foot of a granite hill in Gervon and in Crozes-Hermitage. The goal is to balance the strength of the south with the freshness of the granite in the north. 100% destemmed, crushed, and goes to tank by gravity, vinified and aged in concrete. Fine and expressive on the nose with dusty, peppery red cherry fruit, and some violet floral character, and pepper and charcuterie savouriness. The palate shows lovely focus and balance with sweet fruit and nice grip. Red cherries and raspberries with real finesse and presence. 94/100

Laurent Fayolle Crozes-Hermitage Les Pontaix 2022
Mostly small alluvial pebbles with clay, and in some places there is between 3-7% of limestone in the subsoil. All destemmed, vinified in concrete and aged in demi-muids, and 20% aged in concrete eggs. This has lovely poise with some savoury structure sitting under restrained red berry fruits, with some grainy, spicy detail as well as fine pepper notes. Linear and focused with red fruit as well as fine grippy structure. Lots of potential for ageing here, showing real class, freshness and restraint even though 2022 was hot. 95/100

Laurent Fayolle Crozes-Hermitage Clos les Cornirets 2022
This is from a granite hillside, facing south/southwest. The granite brings freshness but the exposure some warmth. Destemmed, vinified in concrete and aged in barrel, about 10% new. Fine spices on the nose with floral red cherry fruit and a hint of cinnamon, even. The palate is concentrated and taut, with high acidity and firm tannins, sitting under vital red cherry and raspberry fruit. Tightwound with some complex pepper and dried herb notes in the mix as well as bold fruit. This has lots of potential for development. 95/100

Laurent Fayolle Crozes-Hermitage Clos les Cornirets 2019
A warm vintage. Warmly aromatic with sweet black cherry and plum fruit with olive and even a subtle balsamic note, combining sweet and savoury. The palate has freshness and substantial structure with dried herbs and pepper as well as some liqourice and tar. Warmth and freshness combined, finishing long, spicy and dusty. This is really good. 95/100

Laurent Fayolle
9, Rue Du Ruisseau -26600 Gervans Village
+33 (0) 4 75 03 33 74

CROZES-HERMITAGE

THE WINES

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