The 2023 releases from Maison Verget, one of the stars of the Mâconnais
Website: https://www.verget-sa.fr/en/
Julien Desplans (winemaker, pictured above) and Sophie Guffens (daughter of the owner) were in town to show off the 2023 releases from Maison Verget. Verget is the negociant arm of Jean-Marie Guffens’ Guffens-Heynen domaine in Bourgogne, and is based in Sologny, in the Mâconnais. They only work with fruit from the Mâconnais these days because they couldn’t get what they wanted from more fancy addresses in Bourgogne. These wines are exceptional, and all were screwcapped, which is very unusual for this region.
Verget Bourgogne Blanc Grand Élevage 2023
It’s from two plots with mainly clay soils. 10% new oak. Textural and fine with lovely texture and depth, with a lovely mineral, finely spiced edge to the pear and white peach fruit. Some aniseed notes with depth but also some brightness on the finish. 93/100
Verget Mâcon-Pierreclos 2023
Stainless steel, old vines. Such precision and detail here with bright lemon and pear fruit as well as very subtle bready richness. Has incisive acidity and nice purity, but also depth. 93/100
Verget Mâcon-Pierreclos En Tremblay 2023
Oak matured with 20% new. Fine and detailed with subtle smoke, clove and cedar hints sitting behind the sweet pear and citrus fruit. It’s so crystalline with lovely detail and spiciness. So long and detailed with nice precision. 94/100
Verget Mâcon-Bussières Vignes de Montbrison 2023
Clay/limestone soils. Lovely acid line here: so bright, energetic and precise with a mineral streak and good acidity, showing pure citrus and pear fruit, with a slight herbal hint. Lovely tapering mineral finish. 94/100
Verget Mâcon-Roche Vineuse Les Bois Joyaux 2023
Old vines on limestone soil, south-facing plot. 25% new oak. There’s some innate richness here with a touch of honey as well as sweet melon and citrus with nice lemony brightness, and a hint of cabbage and herb. Nice intensity and richness here with lovely depth to the fruit. 93/100
Verget Mâcon-Pierreclos Lieu Secret 2023
This is from vines next door to the Guffens-Heynen Chavigne vineyard. 25% new oak. Lovely concentration with a racy, salty egde to the sweet pear and peach fruit. It shows crystalline citrus fruit with some peachy depth. Very stylish with nice length. 95/100
Verget Mâcon-Vergisson La Roche 2023
North-facing part of sur la Roche vineyard, whereas the south bit is Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Cru. Lovely concentration with pear and white peach fruit with some saltiness and nice fine spiciness. Great detail and harmony. Some chalkiness on the palate, finishing with a lovely precise acid line. 94/100
Verget Saint-Veran Vigne de St Claude 2023
Small parcel of vines in Prissé, stony soils, 50 years old, 25% new oak. Nice concentration to this with a touch of aniseed and lovely plum citrus and pear fruit. Lovely texture and nice precision with subtle toastiness in the background. Nicely intense with lots of good edges. 94/100
Verget Saint-Veran Lieu (Inter)dit 2023
Grown in the Côte-Rôtie vineyard, which growers can’t use the name of, hence the name of this cuvée. This has subtly smoky stone fruits with lovely ripe white peach and citrus fruit with fine spicy detail. Mineral, taut and very long with great precision, and some saltiness on the finish. 95/100
Verget Pouilly-Fuissé Le Haut de la Roche 2023
Not 1er cru because of elevation. 25% new oak. This is concentrated and quite serious with a stony, mineral undercurrent and notes of meal and baked bread, as well as some clove spice. The palate has nice freshness with a long tapering finish and plenty of compact pear and white peach fruit. 95/100
Verget Pouilly-Fuissé Les Combes Vieilles Vignes 2023
Vines facing both north and south, picked in three separate tris, fermented separately and then blended. 25% new oak. Rich, bold, luscious and intense with meal, toast, peach and apricot as well as some citrus freshness. Really bold and rich with a wide dynamic range, this is quite remarkable, in a rich style but still keeping some balance. 96/100
Verget Pouilly-Fuissé Sur La Roche Premier Cru 2023
Southeast facing, 25% new oak. Bold, rich but beautifully balanced with fine citrus fruit and some white peach and ripe pear, as well as some toasty brightness and a bit of spice. Lovely purity and intensity, showing depth and richness but also having a nice fresh underpinning. Lovely. 95/100
UK availability: Farr Vintners
