Bendito Destino: a brilliant new project in Spain’s Ribero del Duero
Website: https://www.benditodestino.wine/
Terry Kandylis was head sommelier at 67 Pall Mall, and then spent a year working for Caprice Holdings, before deciding to move to new projects in Australia. Then the pandemic hit, and his plans were off. En route to the Canary Islands for some wine action, he visited Ribera del Duero, where he was struck by some of the amazing old vineyards.
Because few in the region pay more for old-vine fruit, the future of these very old vineyards is uncertain, and some are being abandoned. But Terry hatched a plan, and began buying old plots Canalejas de Penafiel, which is at an altitude of 925 m: the highest in Valladolid.
The initial 2.1 hectares has grown to around 8 hectares, all of which are 80-100 years old. Most of these plots are field blends, with the exception of two single plots of Garnacha and Albillo. Red varieties are Tempranillo, Garnacha, Bobal (Valenciano), and even Monastrell, with a majority of Tempranillo. The whites are Albillo Mayor, Jaen Blanco, and Malvasia Riojana. The grapes are harvested together.
Winemaking is low fi. There’s some whole bunch, and the emphasis is on light extraction and low oak impact. Ferments are wild.
Terry is now group sommelier at Noble Rot, when he’s not making wine.
Bendito Albillo Mayor 2022 Ribera del Duero, Spain
These grapes are foot trodden and then basket press. The juice is allowed to go brown and then the wine is fermented in two new François Frères Rare barrels. Lively, rounded and spicy with fine citrus, pear and peach fruit. There’s a fine spicy quality and a hint of apple, and this is lively and detailed. Should age well. 93/100
Bendito Destino Clarette 2022 Ribera del Duero, Spain
A blend of red and white varieties, foot trodden and then fermented in old wood. Very pale pink in colour. Nicely textured pear and cherry fruit, showing lovely balance and weight, with some fine spices. Mineral. 93/100
Bendito Destino Field Blend 2022 Ribera del Duero, Spain
20-30% whole bunch. Supple and bright with lovely texture, showing red cherries and strawberries as well as some spices. Fine, mineral and pure with good mouthfeel. 94/100
Bendito Destino Fuentecebello 2021 Ribera del Duero, Spain
This is one of six single-vineyard reds that they make. 0.3 hectares, sandy soils over limestone, 40% whole bunch. 80% Tempranillo, 10% Garnacha, 10% white grapes. Valley facing northeast, with a vineyard planted in 1920. So supple, textural and open with fresh red cherries and raspberries. Nice acidity and texture, and a sour cherry finish. This has beautiful finesse. 95/100
Bendito Destino La Cabaña 2021 Ribera del Duero, Spain
This is from a rocky north-facing vineyard, and it’s where they started the project. Northeast orientation, with sandy and clay soil. 75% Tempranillo, 10% Garnacha & Valenciano, 10% Albillo, 5% Alarije and Pirulés. Super-floral nose here. Refined and elegant red cherries and plums with some structure and a mineral quality. Very stony, bright and fine with real elegance. Chalky and gravelly. 96/100
Older note:
Bendito Destino Field Blend 2021 Ribera del Duero, SpainThis is the project that Terry Kandilis is involved with, and he brought it along. It’s from old bush vines at 900 m on limestone soils, and the project started in 2020. ‘For me, the eye-opening experience was trying the Valubuena 3 anos,’ says Terry. ‘It’s just fruit, and it gave me the inspiration. This is 35% whole bunch and spends a year in barrel. Juicy, fresh and focused with bright black cherry and blackberry fruit with a slight lift. Fresh and supple with lovely raspberry and redcurrant fruit, with some structure, and a slightly tart finish. Lovely, and quite different to the normal Ribera style. 94/100
UK agent: Keeling Andrew
