Slovenia: Marof, Prekmurje
I visited Marof in May 2023 on my first tour of Slovenia, and was impressed. On this trip, I caught up with winemaker Uroš Valcl in Maribor to taste through the current range.
Marof is in the Prekmurje region of Slovenia, which is in the far northeast of the country near a village called Mačkovci. It’s close to the border of both Austria and Hungary. The subregion here is called Goričko and it doesn’t have an illustrious history of grape growing, although this is a place with lots of potentially serious terroirs. The Prekmurje region is now at 600 hectares of vines, although previously this was 1500 hectares during the era of the Austro-Hungarian empire.
Uroš hails from Maribor. He’s been winemaker here since 2008. The founder, Stanko Polanič, died in June 2023, but the project continues, with 22 hectares of vines. The approach here is one of long elevage: there’s lots of large format oak in the impressive cellar, as well as some small barrels.
THE WINES
Marof Goričko Blanc 2021 Prekmurje, Slovenia
Blend of three varieties from the three crus. 50% Welschriesling from 45 year old vineyards (quartz gravel, 2500 litre Pauscha), 30% Chardonnay (marine sediments and shells, 600 litre oak) and then 20% Sauvignon (quartz gravel and sands, 600 litre barrels). Harvested separately. This is energetic, detailed and precise with lovely structure and acidity with some grapefruit pith and lime. Lovely yellow fruits, but also some mineral notes and good acidity. This is complex and layered, with good concentration and depth. Gastronomic. 94/100
Marof Goričko Zeleni Silnavec 2021 Prekmurje, Slovenia
This is Silvaner, from a single vineyard. Silvaner has been grown in Slovenia for centuries. Marine sediments with a bit of volcanic tuff. Fermented and left on lees for 18 months in Pauscha foudres. This is expressive with yellow plum and citrus fruit and a nice acid line. Stony, vivid and mineral with nice transparency, showing some nice acidity. Pure and direct with great focus and concentration, showing typicity. 94/100
Marof Goričko Sauvignon 2021 Prekmurje, Slovenia
20 year old vines, fermented in 600 litre oak. This is appley and lemony with nice fruit, showing a touch of herbiness and then some compact quince and melon notes. Ripe and full with nice density, as well as a subtle hazelnut edge. Lovely texture to this wine. 93/100
Marof Kramarovci Chardonnay Grand Vin 2021 Prekmurje, Slovenia
From marine sediments and a bit of volcanic tuff, old vines. 70% destemmed and left overnight in the press, 30% whole cluster pressed. 600 litre barrels and a 2500 litre Stockinger barrel. Overall about 20% new oak. This is fresh and layered with citrus and white peach, with good structure. Dense but fresh at the same time with real intensity, and notes of peach and pineapple as well as the lemony fruit. Dense and quite grippy, with amazing intensity. This has immense potential for future development. It’s brooding and intense right now: if you like great Meursault, you’ll like this. 95/100
Marof Bodonci Sauvignon Grand Vin 2021 Prekmurje, Slovenia
On top of red gravel and then a bit on the sand. South-facing slope, surrounded by forest. Destemmed, left in press 2-3 hours and then pressed, 6 hours settling, then to big Stockinger. Beautiful aromatics here with melon, pear and citrus, as well as some grapefruit. Bold palate with dense citrus and nice concentrated yellow plum and papaya notes, finishing with some fine herb character. This has really nice texture and good acidity. Has some celery salt on the finish. 94/100
Marof Goričko Rosé 2022 Prekmurje, Slovenia
This was made for his Swiss importer, and he makes it every two years. 90% Blaufränkisch and 10% Zweigelt, direct pressed and settled, then fermented in used 500 litre oak barrels. Gastronomic: fresh and supple with good acidity and sappy cherry and strawberry fruit with nice acidity. Juicy and linear with a savoury twist, and some mineral notes. Grown up rosé with drive and energy. This is serious rosé. Has cult rosé potential. 94/100
Marof Goričko Sivi Pinot 2021 Prekmurje, Slovenia
This is Pinot Gris, skin fermented in open fermenters, with 30% whole cluster on top. Aged in 500 litre barrels. Lovely pink/orange colour. Beautiful aromatics with floral perfume and notes of orange peel and stewed strawberry. The palate has lovely energy with some green apple, red cherry and then some Campari notes. Really nice sweet and sour character, with great balance. The sweet fruit and the bitterness work together really well. 94/100
Marof Goričko Noir 2020 Prekmurje, Slovenia
A blend of 50% Blaufränkisch, 40% Zweigelt and 10% Merlot, from vineyards around the cellar. Sandy quartz and gravel with some clay. Supple sweet berry fruits with some lively acidity, and a nice spicy detail. Rounded and fruity but with good acidity and a spicy fringe. Has a savoury twist on the finish. Real interest here. 92/100
Marof Mačkovci Modra Frankijna Grand Vin 2020 Prekmurje, Slovenia
Mostly large oak, but 10% in 500 litre Stockinger. Gentle extraction. Grippy and quite savoury with good acidity, but such lovely structured black cherry, blackberry and raspberry fruit, as well as some salty notes. There’s freshness and some grip. Lovely fruit here with real presence. Grainy and grippy with firmness under the fruit. Taut and unfurled with amazing focus. A superb example of Blaufränkisch. 95/100
Marof SP 2020 Prekmurje, Slovenia
Stanko’s initials: a tribute to him. 100% Merlot, aged in small oak. This is tannic and dense, but has sweet fruit and a lot of spicy oak. Cherry, aniseed, sour cherry and some cedar characters, finishing lively and spicy and long. This has real complexity, and nice tension. A very different style of wine, but full of interest. Candle wax and incense, too. 93/100
Marof Goričko Renski Rizling 2022 Prekmurje, Slovenia
Destemmed, overnight in press, pressed, settled then overnight in large Pauscha barrels. Rich, intense, off dry, lovely pear and peach fruit with some nice spicy detail and good acidity and a bit of phenolic structure countering the sweetness. Very stylish, with savoury structure balancing the lovely sweet fruit. 93/100
