Alsace Pinot Noir, a mini study
I tasted quite a bit of Pinot Noir when I last visited Alsace in autumn 2023, and came away impressed. In the past, I’d struggled a bit with some of the wines I’d tried: it seemed like some growers were trying to hard, and using too much oak, for example. But things are changing. Here are three that I tried recently, all from the very warm 2022 vintage.
Mann Vignoble Les 3 Terres Pinot Noir Grand Cru Hengst 2022 Alsace, France
12.5% alcohol. This comes from limestone soils. Ripe and sweetly fruited, this is quite dense with black cherry fruit and some stewed plum notes. This has a natural feel to it with a hint of sweet, spicy acidity under the fruit. Very stylish with a slight meaty, herby edge, showing lush fruit with a grippy finish. 92/100
Leipp Leininger Pinot Noir Grand Cru Kirchberg de Barr 2022 Alsace, France
14% alcohol. Organic. Sweetly aromatic with strawberry and raspberry fruit. Ripe with good concentration but also some spicy notes, as well as subtle green hints and a touch of sour cherry on the finish. Stylish. 93/100
Barmès-Buecher Pinot Noir Grand Cru Hengst 2022 Alsace, France
14.5% alcohol. Organic. Ripe, rich and opulent with sweet black cherry and blackberry fruit. Good concentration here with some subtle meaty personality and spicy notes. Notes of tea and herb, and also some tannin. 93/100
