Tasting some wines from Bolivia: Jardín Oculto and Yokich
I’ve tasted a lot of wines before, but this was the first time I’d tried any from Bolivia. Nayan Gowda, who has been working as a winemaker at Jardín Oculto since 2000 was in town, along with a couple of Bolivian friends, and I tasted through a range of wines. The Jardín Oculto wines are made from extremely old vines that grow on trees. This is heroic viticulture, and it’s typical of the Cinti Valley, which is a high-altitude canyon (these are some of the highest vineyards in the world). Vineyards were first established here 500 years ago to supply the wealthy mining town of Potosí.
Jardín Oculto Finca Lumen Blanc de Noir Vischoqueña 2023 Cinti, Bolivia
Vischoqueña is a variety that’s only found in the Cinti Valley, and it is a cross between Muscat and a local Criolla. This wine is supple, fresh and open with a juicy edge and nice lightness. Clean and supple. It’s not high in acidity but it tastes fresh. 89/100
Jardín Oculto Finca San Roque Blend of Criollas Rosé 2024 Cinti, Bolivia
Pale pink in colour, this is grapey and fresh with nice weight, supple fruit and a slight jellyish edge. Has freshness as well as a nice grapey richness. 91/100
Jardín Oculto Finca San Roque Negra Criolla 2023 Cinti, Bolivia
Pale orange/red in colour (there was a heat spike and this affected the anthocyanins in the skins), this has a spicy edge to the cherry and plum fruit, with a bit of grip. There’s a savoury character here. 86/100
Jardín Oculto Finca Los Membrillos Negra Criolla 2023 Cinti, Bolivia
Pale red in colour. Supple red cherries and strawberries with nice intensity and grip. This is textured with real interest, and even some hints of quince. 93/100
Jardín Oculto Finca Molle Pampa Negra Criolla 2023 Cinti, Bolivia
Pale red in colour. Nice depth and texture here with fine spices, a bit of orange peel and some Campari/negroni characters that add interest. Lovely wine. 94/100
Alma Oculto Vischoqueña 2024 Bolivia
This is textured and fine. It’s a bit grapey with nice depth and a touch of spiciness. Fragrant and elegant. 93/100
Jardín Oculto Lado B Tannat Nouveau 2024 Bolivia
11.5% alcohol. Juicy, bright, taut and fresh with nice bold berry and black cherry fruits, with good acidity. 91/100
Yokich Winery
Website: https://yokichwinery.com/
These wines were presented by winemaker Patricia Mendoza. Her father deserves credit for his work on making selections of Criollas, and preserving this genetic diversity for others to benefit from.
Yokich Cepas Viejas Orange Muscat 2023 Cinti, Bolivia
Rounded, pure and grapey with good density and texture. There’s a subtle bitterness on the finish. Natural winemaking done well. 92/100
Yokich Imporeña Cepas Centeneiras 2023 Cinti, Bolivia
Juicy and textured with nice weight, and it has a grapey edge. Good depth and concentration. Bold and full. 91/100
Yokich Cepas Misionera 2023 Cinti, Bolivia
This is made from selected clones of Criolla that come from vines aged 100-350. Nice weight here. Juicy and textured with a core of sweet cherry fruits and a touch of Campari. Very nice. 91/100
Yokich Misionera 2021 Cinti, Bolivia
This has 5% Shiraz in the blend. Bold and rich with sweet fruit. Warm and spicy with rich berry fruit. Ripe and rich. 88/100
Yokich Barbera 2024 Cinti, Bolivia
Barbera arrived here in 1968. Bold, juicy and bright with some tartness and nice spiciness. There’s a bit of grip, too. Good density, with a sour cherry edge. 91/100
Yokich Botrytis Moscatel 2015 Cinti, Bolivia
Rich, spicy, complex and concentrated. Raisiny and intense with some spice and tar notes. Warm and enticing with a soft texture. 92/100
