A mini-Champagne study: Ayala, Bollinger, Albert Lebrun, Forget Brimont
Tried these four Champagnes together to compare and contrast. Ayala came out really well from this comparison.
Champagne Ayala Brut Majeur NV France
This comes from 70 crus, 120 vinifications. It’s 55% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir and 15% Pinot Meunier. Based on the disaster year of 2021, with 43% reserve wines, and 6 g/l dosage. This is bright and lively, but also nicely complex, with cherry and pear fruit as well as a touch of peach, and some nice spicy detail. This has lovely toast and spice in the background. There’s a slight saltiness on the finish, too. This is really good, with more richness and development than I was expecting and the dosage adding some body and sweetness that holds everything together. 92/100 (I got this cheaply from The Wine Society, c. £25 a bottle on offer)
Champagne Bollinger Cuvée Speciale NV France
This bottle comes with the 007 branding. No information about the wine on the bottle, and the label QR code doesn’t work. Fruity and bright with some nice depth: grapey and toasty with some honey, and even a hint of cedar spice. The acidity is really assertive, and there’s a vitality to this wine, which finishes so lively. Juicy, lemony, slightly waxy. 91/100 (Bollinger pricing is complicated. It lists everywhere at £58, but then promotes everywhere to £44, but this was a Tesco special at £34)
Champagne Albert Lebrun Premier Cru Brut NV France
This is juicy and bright with nice fruit quality. It’s citrussy with a bit of grapey richness. It’s fruity and lively with nice acidity and some mandarin and grapefruit zest. Not so complex, but bright, fruity and delicious enough, finishing a bit sweet. 88/100 (from a small producer in Avize, this is £26 from The Wine Society)
Champagne Forget-Brimont Brut Premier Cru NV France
This is an NM with 19 hectares of their own vineyards, but they also buy in grapes. From Montagne de Reims with 40-50% reserve wine, 30 months on lees. 40% Pinot Noir, 40% Pinot Meunier and 20% Chardonnay. This is juicy, lively and bright. Lovely fruit here with lemon, white peach and table grapes. Nice fine spicy notes and hints of toast. This is really appealing, showing nice fruit and a touch of sweetness on the finish. This shows really nice, precise fruit. 91/100 (widely available, around £30)
