Mini-Chardonnay study, with a sea bass lunch: Meursault, West Auckland, Hawke’s Bay, Eden Valley
There are so many places making good Chardonnay now, and quite a few regions are achieving greatness with this variety on a regular basis.
This morning saw an 0430 alarm and a Billingsgate Fish Market raid. Lots of good things at good prices: opted for some big prawns and five decent sea bass. This was followed by a scallop and bacon roll in the cafe. With milky coffee, alas, not wine.
Then off to see my mum and my aunt and uncle. We cooked: the fish was insanely good. The prawns were superb. And it was an opportunity to road test four really good Chardonnays, all of which performed well. Perhaps the oaky pair, the Meursault and the Hawke’s Bay, really benefitted by being paired with the fish. But all were really good. The pricing of the Meursault is a bit bonkers though, but this is modern day Bourgone for you.
Kumeu River Coddington Chardonnay 2023 West Auckland, New Zealand
This is taut and focused with a steely edge to the citrus fruit, with just a hint of pineapple and a touch of struck flint minerality. This is a thoughtful, precise Chardonnay with amazing intensity and a long, mineral finish. 95/100 (UK retail c. £43)
Sileni Exceptional Selection Chardonnay 2023 Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand
This is generous with peach, pear and spice. There’s rich fruit but also some appealing spicy oak. A delicious, well balanced barrel- fermented Chardonnay. 93/100 (no price information available)
Heggies Vineyard Cloudline Chardonnay 2023 Eden Valley, Australia
This is bright and lively with some pineapple and lemon and crystalline citrus. This has a lovely acid line with a tapering finish. 94/100 (UK retail £14.99 Co-op)
Bouchard Père et Fils Meursault Les Clous 2021 Bourgogne, France
13% alcohol. 15% new oak. This is a Domaine wine from Bouchard, who are mostly a negociant. Stony and vivid with some savoury nutty, spicy character as well as rich pear and peach fruit. Lovely complexity and depth. Mealy, nutty and rich. 94/100 (UK retail around £80)
