Nice wines at the 67 Sessions: Le Moine, Brocard, Scala Dei, San Leonardo
The evening before the 67 Pall Mall Global Wine Communicator Awards, there was a new event. The 67 Sessions, an evening of wine, words and music. It featured a jazz trio with Tom Hewson revisiting his previous career as a jazz pianist, and Nelson Pari revisiting his past life as a guitarist, joined by Tom Farmer on bass. They were excellent.
The words side of things came from the peerless Andrew Jefford, who was given free rein to do the verbal painting he’s so good at, creating a canvas with ideas and insights, expertly woven together.
And there was wine. Some really good wine, including some surprises and things new to me. Here are my notes on the wines.
Champagne Laurent Perrier Héritage Brut NV France
This is a new wine, made solely from reserve wines from 40crus, half of which are Grand Cru. It’s actually the first non-vintage Brut Champagne made from just reserve wines. Aged four years on lees. Nicely complex with bright citrus fruit, a hint of toast, and some tautness. There’s a crystalline quality to the citrus and also a nice subtle salinity. Good weight and tension here. 93/100
Lucien Le Moine Chablis 1er Cru Monte de Tonnerre 2021 France
This is matured in a single 500 litre barrel, new, with 20 litres of lees. It’s left for a couple of years on lees without racking. This is a really remarkable wine with complex toast, honey and spice on the nose. It’s powerful, mealy and intense. Powerful, rich, salty and intense with amazing precision. Multidimenional, but also fresh and nuanced. Brilliant. 97/100
Julien Brocard Chablis 1er Cru Monte de Tonnerre 2021 France
This is broad, toasty and has some nutty notes, as well as hints of butter and pear. Textural and finely spiced with amazing depth but also freshness. 94/100
Scala Dei Prior 2021 Priorat, Spain
This is a blend of 47% Grenache with Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. It’s ripe, seamless and elegant. It’s supple and expression with notes of liqourice, leather and sweet cherry and blackberry fruit. Nicely textured with a lovely rounded palate and no harsh tannins, showing great balance and harmony. Fine grained and mineral, this is fine but has a lovely tarry, sinewy edge. 95/100
Tenuta San Leonardo San Leonardo 2017 Trentino, Italy
This is the first time I’ve tried this famous wine, which is Cabernet Sauvignon with some Carmenere and Merlot, made with the help of consultant Giacamo Tachis. It’s really aromatic with sleek blackberry and blackcurrant fruit with some spicy balsamic notes. Ripe and textural with a note of green bean in the mix. So expressive with lovely depth and freshness. 94/100
