Sifnos, the gastronomic Greek island (4) Kastro and Cantina, Loggia reprise
The second day in Kastro. We walk into the village and then take a path down to view the famous Church of the Seven Martyrs (pictured above). But this cliff path doesn’t feel all that comfortable when the wind is blowing as strongly as it was on this day, so we took some pictures and headed back.
We set out on a trail (Sifnos has some great walking trails) to nearby Poulati, and this was spectacular. The path follows the terraces in the hillside. Rugged, and very dry at this time of year. We didn’t go down to the beach, though.
Dinner on night two in Kastro was exceptional, and one of the highlights of the trip. It was at a restaurant called Cantina.
You can see it from Loggia: looking down from the top of Kastro there’s a small stony beach (Seralia), and right up close to the waterfront, almost hewn into the rock, is a rustic building with a small courtyard which by night turns into a serious tasting menu restaurant.
There are three services: 4 pm, 7 pm, 10 pm. You can’t eat at any other time. It’s tasting menu only at 70 Euros, although there’s the option of a slightly expanded version at 100 Euros. This is another place you need to book for, and we were quite lucky to get in for the 7 pm service. A few minutes before 7 we mingle on the shingle, before the group is invited to come up. It’s a remote setting with no car access: we walked down from Kastro and then along a bamboo-lined path in the gorge to the tiny bay.
Food here is superb. And there’s a legit wine list, although two weeks before the end of the season it had started to thin out a little. It’s natural/low intervention dominant, and for me that’s a good thing. We broke our rule of drinking just Greek wine, and opted for something good from Hungary, followed by a Santorini white and
Homonna Tokaji Furmint Rány 2019 Hungary
Stony and alert but textured with amazing mineral energy as well as bright lemony fruit and some hints of pear and melon. There’s a reallly nice texture to this wine. It’s edgy and saline but refined. 95/100
Karomolegas 2019 Santorini, Greece
Rich, concentrated and saline with smoke and spice and a hint of incense. Lovely development has added a bit of weight, and some toast. Such a distinctive wine. 94/100
Chatzivaritis Estate Spin Negoska 2021 Goumenissa, Greece
Brooding, spicy, dark and peppery with a meaty edge to the berry fruits. Slightly wild with a mountain herb edge. Grainy and structural. This is quite delicious. 93/100
After gastronomic delight, we walked back up the steps to Kastro and found ourselves once again at Loggia, where we stayed until close.
Karanika Cuvée Speciale Extra Brut 2023 Amyndeon, Greece
Biodynamically grown Xinomavro. Bright and fruit driven with crisp citrus and a touch of white peach and cherry. Lovely brisk fruit here, finishing tart. 90/100
Meli Ligas Antigonisme 2022 Macedonia, Greece
This is a natural wine (3 mg/ml total suflites) made from the white Moschomavro variety. Complex and lively with just a hint of lifted acidity giving some sweetness to the acid on the palate as well as pear and citrus. Such complexity and interest. 93/100
