Brunia, an exciting cool-climate wine project from South Africa’s Walker Bay
Website: https://www.bruniawines.co.za/
This is an exciting project owned by the Sander family, and it’s in a relatively unknown winegrowing region that’s called Sondagskloof. Let’s locate this geographically. It’s in the Walker Bay region, but it’s best to think of it as extension of the Cape South Coast. If you head to Hermanus on the R43, there’s a road that leads up the Hemel-en-Arde Valley, which is now a very exciting wine region with a distinctly cool climate. But you don’t take that: you keep going through the town and stay on the R43 to a town called Stanford. Then you keep going, and you find Sondagskloof about half way between Hermanus and Elim, some 17 km from the cold sea.
There’s a bit of altitude here, but not too much, and the climate is ideal for cooler-climate varieties. The farm is called Cold Mountain, and it’s quite big, but there are a modest 17 hectares of vines, from which Wade Sander (pictured above) makes some very smart wines. He trained at Elsenberg and worked a few harvests around and about, and then did six years at Mullineux before heading up this family-owned operation, alongside his brother Brett who oversees the rest of the farm. I tasted these wines with him at ProWein in March 2026.
Farming here, across the 400 hectare property, is organic and biodynamic.
Brunia Sauvignon Blanc 2023 Sondagskloof, South Africa
25 year old vines, all barrel fermented, with the only addition some SO2 at bottling. Textural with lovely purity. There’s a mineral core to the juicy berry fruits with some citrus brightness. Really intriguing, showing lovely weight. 94/100
Brunia White 2023 Sondagskloof, South Africa
50% Sauvignon, 50% Semillon, raised in barrel. Blended after 6 months and then returned to barrel for 4 more months. Fine spicy detail here: textured and lively with an appealing stony mineral edge to the ripe pear and citrus fruit. Very textural with nice concentration. 94/100
Brunia Extended Barrel Ageing Sauvignon Blanc 2019 Sondagskloof, South Africa
Lovely depth here with apples, spice and even a hint of honey. Nice depth and focus with some richness, countered by a good acid line. This is really good. 94/100
Brunia Pinot Noir 2023 Sondagskloof, South Africa
This is from the youngest block on the farm: 115 clone planted on sandstone 16 years ago. 10% whole cluster. Supple and elegant. Refined with some mid-palate weight, fine spicy notes and a touch of iodine. Detailed, mineral and very fine. 95/100
Brunia Syrah 2023 Sondagskloof, South Africa
40% whole bunch, then 12 months in older oak. This is lively and balanced with nice purity and some white pepper. Some fine spicy detail here. Sleek with fresh red cherry and raspberry fruit, showing real finesse. 94/100
