An almost perfect meal at Noble Rot, Mayfair (London), with Sarris, Keller and Sadie wines

I’ve been to Noble Rot’s Mayfair and Lambs Conduit Street restaurants many times, and the experience has always been good. But a recent lunch really stood out. We did a walk in on a Saturday, and planned to do the excellently priced set lunch menu (they also do a vegetarian version, but you have to ask for it). It’s one of London’s great restaurant bargains, but of course you inevitably buy a bottle or two because the wine list is insane.

But this time we went a la carte, because there was a whole fish, for £60, and it sounded amazing, and it was. So beautifully cooked: this arrived completely de-boned but otherwise whole.

The wines we drank were stunning. We were comped a glass of the Keller and the Sadie, and then bought the Sarris (which turned out to be a great choice).

Keller Abts E Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2024 Rheinhessen, Germany
This is from the Abtserde, a top site in the the Westhofener Brunnenhäuschen. It’s very expensive, but it’s stunning. Mineral, intense, textured with beautiful crystalline citrus fruit. So textured yet also so precise. 96/100

Sadie Family Sonvang 2024 Swartland, South Africa
A new addition to Eben’s line up, this is a field blend of Alicante Bouchet, Agiorgitiko, Pontac, Bastardo do Castillo, Trincadera, Tinta Barocca, Lleudonder Pelut, Grenache Noir, Pinotage, Cinsaut, Counoise and Carignan. Such purity and definition with fresh, silky red cherry fruit and a touch of raspberry. Real purity and finesse here. Drinking perfectly now but with some development prospects: there’s a bit of tannin. 96/100

Sarris Panochori 2024 Kefalonia, Greece
This is from a plot of 65 year old ungrafted Robola vines. Textured but fresh with lovely citrus drive, a nice crystalline quality, and good acidity. Such purity, and saline minerality. 95/100