Usonia, a really innovative wine project from New York’s Finger Lakes
Website: https://www.usoniawine.com/
While I was in the region in June I ran into a new producer, Usonia, who are doing things a bit differently.
Julia and Alex Alvarez-Perez have worked in Austria’s Burgenland, and also Australia’s Adelaide Hills. In the Finger Lakes, they are trying to find a way forward for this region that tells its own story.
They are working with hybrids but making interesting wines (normally hybrids aren’t taken seriously), as well as doing a bit with vinifera. They officially launched in 2020 and have their own 4.5 acre vineyard on the west side of Cayuga Lake, planted with Cabernet Franc and Riesling, the two star vinifera varieties in the region. But in 2022 they started getting into hybrids. Finger Lakes will always have quite a lot of hybrids because of the climate: away from the protective effect of large bodies of water, winters are just too cold for vinifera. Now people are working more creatively with them, which is good to see.
Usonia Cayuga White 2024 Finger Lakes, New York
Hand picked, direct pressed and fermented and matured in fibreglass. Supple, fruity and stony, with juicy fruit. Quite delicate and pure. 90/100
Usonia Soon Different 2025 Finger Lakes, New York
This beautiful rosé is made from organically farmed Regent, Aravel and Arabella. Juicy and lively with strawberry and redcurrant. Nice brightness here with some herby detail. Lovely. 91/100
Usonia Member When 2024 Finger Lakes, New York
This is Geneva White No 2 (in plastic tank on skins) and Verdelet (in 500 litre barrel). Organic. Nice weight here with some structure and stony spicy detail. Grainy, pure and showing some complexity with nice tannins. This is lovely. 91/100
Usonia Good Spirit 2021 Finger Lakes, New York
Cofermented Baco Noir, Chaloire and Traminette. Juicy and fruity with berry fruits and nice grip. Has good fruit purity. This is delicious, fresh and pure. 92/100
Usonia Pompliano Purple 2024 Finger Lakes, New York
Biodynamically farmed Sabrevois. Full coloured. Fresh and stony with a bit of wood spice. Lovely pure fruit, with some freshness and brightness. Direct and pure. 91/100
