Clau de Nell, the Anjou (Loire) estate from Christian Jacques and Anne-Claude Leflaive
It was back in 2008 that Christian Jacques and Anne Claude Leflaive purchased the struggling Clau de Nell domaine, initially with a view to running it with the existing owner who was experiencing financial difficulties. Soon, though, they realized they’d have to run it themselves if it was going to work.
Jacques and Leflaive already knew Clau de Nell because it was part of a portfolio of 13 biodynamic domaines that they were selling. But the domaine was in such trouble that it hadn’t made wine for three years.
In 2009 Jacques was joined by winemaker Sylvain Potin, and they set about restoring the vineyards. It’s a single, rather isolated plot of 12 hectares on a gentle slope, and as well as the Cabernet Franc and Grolleau vines, they’ve planted some Chenin Blanc. There’s also a bit of Cabernet Sauvignon, too. ‘Grolleau is very important for us,’ says Sylvain. ‘It’s our native grape variety and these are 90-100 year old vines.’
It’s quite significant that the vines are just in one block, with no other vines nearby. The neighbouring forests and farmland add biodiversity.
The property is named after the previous owners, who hailed from Burgundy, called Claude and Nelly Pichard. Clau de Nell has now been farmed biodynamically since 2000.
Anne-Claude passed in 2015, but Christian has carried on with Clau de Nell, and his late wife’s name is still on the bottles. His three daughters, Marine, Charlotte and Claire, are actively involved with the estate now. They are based in Burgundy, but Sylvain is the local person and lives in the Loire.
I tasted these wines with Sylvain Potin at the headquarters of his UK importer, Corney & Barrow. The pictures of the vineyards are from a visit in May 2017.
Clau de Nell Blanc de Noir 2022 Vin de France
This is a cuvée that has been made since 2020, from Cabernet Franc. It’s the latest ripening block, and they just keep the heart of the pressing to make a white wine. It’ spends 18 months in a neutral barrel. Textural with pear, peach and cherry, as well as some almond detail. Quite rich. 92/100
Clau de Nell Blanc de Noir 2023 Vin de France
Linear and focused with nice citrus and pear fruit. Lovely tension and balance with a fruity core. 93/100
Clau de Nell Chenin Blanc 2023 Anjou, Loire, France
Vines planted in 2012 on limestone/clay soils, south-facing plot. The vines were grafted with the greffe anglaise, and the material is mass selection. This has depth but also some delicacy with pear, citrus and white peach, and a nice reductive twist. There’s richness as well as crystalline focus. Nice tension. 95/100
Clau de Nell Grolleau 2020 IGP Val de Loire, France
Floral and bright with lovely cherry fruit and some raspberry notes too. Floral with a touch of wild strawberry and some peppery hints to the textured fruit. Fine and elegant. 94/100
Clau de Nell Cabernet Franc 2020 Loire, France (magnum)
Fresh, fine, textured and linear with a chalky undercurrent to the sweet raspberry and cherry fruit. Supple and elegant with a nice acid line. 96/100
Clau de Nell Cabernet Franc 2022 Loire, France
Very fine and expressive with a chalky edge to the red cherry and raspberry fruit, with a sour cherry twist. Lovely finesse, and really nice fine-grained tannins. 95/100
Clau de Nell Cuvée Violette 2019 Anjou, Loire, France (magnum)
This is the only blend at the estate, and it brings together Cabernets Franc and Sauvignon. Both are old vine. Concentrated and dense showing blackcurrant and black cherry fruit with some meaty density. Hints of pepper and olives. Powerful, quite tannic, but fine with nice depth. 94/100
Clau de Nell Cuvée Violette 2020 Loire, France
Meaty and firm with lovely bright berry fruits. Notes of blackcurrant and sour cherry with nice spicy detail and a chalky edge to the fruit. Vivid, powerful and focused, showing a savoury twist. 94/100
UK agent: Corney & Barrow
